Hotels

The Old Town

Accommodations in the Old Town have an atmosphere of ages past, but character does not always equal charm. There are few really attractive options here, and they are in considerable demand, with all of the attending complications. One is that some hosts will hold you to the letter of your intent -- so if you need or wish to cancel a day or more of your stay, they will do their best to extract every last pence. And there is some hedging, which means that the exact room agreed upon may be "unavailable" at the end of the day. Be explicit and keep a paper trail.

The New Town & Environs

Unlike the Old Town, the New Town doesn't prohibit new construction. You'll find a wild array of options, from boardinghouses to package-tour hotels to luxury resorts. Some are dazzling -- take a look at the Rodos Palace on the west-coast road running out of town if your taste runs that way -- but many are dull and so indistinguishable that you may forget which one you're in. I've tried to make a selection of those in different prices ranges that stand out.

Lindos & Environs

In high season, Lindos marks the spot where up to 10,000 day-trippers from Rhodes city converge with 4,000 resident tourists. As no hotel construction is permitted, almost all of the old homes have been converted into pensions (called "villas" in the brochures) by English charter companies. Triton Holidays (tel. 22410/21-690; www.tritondmc.gr) books six-person villas, including kitchen facilities (reservations are often made a year in advance). In peak season, the local Tourist Information Kiosk (tel. 22440/31-900; fax 22440/31-288) has a list of homes that rent rooms. Plan to pay 50€ ($65) for a double and 70€ to 95€ ($91-$124) for a studio apartment.

Melenos Hotel, in an authentically Lindian-style villa, with hand-painted tiles, local antiques, handcrafted lamps -- in short, traditional splendor combined with contemporary comforts and convenience -- charges hefty prices (suites in high season run 360€-650€/$455-$845). If you're up for this, check it out at www.melenoslindos.com and then contact Michalis Melenos.