A Detour West: Guaranda
As the capital of the province of Bolívar, Guaranda is a charming, relatively small town set among seven lush green hills -- hence its nickname "Rome of the Andes." It has pretty views of the surrounding rolling pastures. While there isn't an extensive repertoire of things to do, Guaranda is a perfect place for taking leisurely walks and hikes, doing some horseback riding, and visiting the colorful Saturday market. It also makes for an excellent base from which to explore the giant Volcán Chimborazo or the nearby village of Salinas, where you can indulge in chocolate and cheese to your heart's content. Other popular local activities include picnics and barbeques at Las Cochas Lake and visiting El Indio de Guaranga, a large monument towering over the town, in honor of its namesake Indian chief.
Guaranda's claim to fame, however, is its annual Carnaval, arguably the country's best. Local and international visitors alike pour into the town by the hundreds to celebrate in traditional Guarandeño style with music, dancing, street parades, beauty contests, and plenty of alcohol, as well as water, egg, and flour fights. Fritada con mote (fried pork with white Andean corn) is typical Carnaval fare in Guaranda, traditionally accompanied by a shot of the infamous Pájaro Azul (Blue Bird), a local drink that would work well as paint stripper. But it's extremely popular: The locals won't let you go home without trying it! Carnaval is 5 solid days of crazy festivities leading up to Ash Wednesday.
If you decide to stay the night, your best bet for accommodations is Hotel Cochabamba, on García Moreno and 7 de Mayo (tel. 03/2981-958), which charges around $30 (£15) for a double and is the most luxurious hotel in downtown Guaranda. Alternatively, check out the slightly more expensive Hotel La Colina, at Guayaquil 177 (tel. 03/2980-666), a 10- to 15-minute walk up the hill, but the splendid views are worth it. A double room here costs approximately $45 (£23) and includes use of pool and Jacuzzi. For those on a budget, Hotel Bolívar, at Sucre 704 and Olmedo (tel. 03/2980-547), has clean, inexpensive rooms with a pretty patio area, as does Hostal de las Flores, at Pichincha and Rocafuerte (tel. 03/2980-644), which is set in a charming building and has rooms with a balcony and cable TV. Both of these budget places charge around $8 (£4.40) per person. Try to book in advance if you plan to travel to Guaranda during Carnaval -- the town gets packed.
When hunger strikes, check out the numerous, inexpensive restaurants around the town near the Plaza Roja; most serve typical Ecuadorian cuisine, including the region's specialty, cuy (roasted guinea pig). Restaurante Cochabamba, at García Moreno and 7 de Mayo (tel. 03/2981-958), belongs to its namesake hotel, serves some great international dishes, and is one of the town's more upmarket restaurants. Café-bar Los 7 Santos, on Convención de 1884 and 10 de Agosto (tel. 03/2980-612), is without a doubt the trendiest eatery, with tasty, inexpensive international and Ecuadorian fare; the open fire makes for a cozy ambience and the artsy decor is a welcome change of pace for Guaranda. For Italian cuisine, try the excellent Pizzería Buon Giorno, Circunvalación, 2 blocks from the Plaza Roja; locals rave about the scrumptious lasagna and delicious pizzas. As for nightlife, Guaranda has few discothèques; check out No Bar, at Azuay and Pichincha, which pumps out typical electronic tunes and infectious reggaetón vibes.
Getting There -- The drive to Guaranda, by bus or car, certainly makes for some breathtaking views, particularly at dawn or dusk. Along the way, you'll ascend 4,000m (13,000-ft.) mountain passes, with huge ravines dropping off from the roadside, and pass right by Volcán Chimborazo.
Flota Bolívar (tel. 03/2982-061 in Guaranda; 02/2570-699 in Quito; 03/2941-832 in Riobamba) is the main bus line serving Guaranda, with buses running roughly every 90 minutes between Guanada and Riobamba from 4am until 5pm. The ride takes about 2 hours and costs around $2 (£1.10). They also offer several daily buses from Quito (5 hr.; $4.50/£2.50). If you're coming from anywhere else in the country, your best bet is to head first to Riobamba and connect from there.
