Attractions

Windjammer Tours

During the transition from sail to steam, captains of fancy new steamships belittled old-fashioned sailing ships as "windjammers." The term stuck; through a curious metamorphosis, the name evolved into one of adventure and romance.

Today, windjammer vacations combine adventure with limited creature comforts -- like lodging at a backcountry cabin floating on the water. Guests typically bunk in small two-person cabins with cold running water, a porthole to let in fresh air, and not much else. (You know it's not like a fancy inn when one ship's brochure boasts that all cabins "are at least 6 feet by 8 feet.")

Maine is the windjammer cruising capital of the U.S., and the two most active Maine harbors are Rockland and Camden, on Penobscot Bay. Cruises last from 3 days to a week, during which these handsome, creaky vessels poke around tidal inlets and small coves that ring the beautiful bay. It's a superb way to explore the coast the way it's historically always been explored -- from out on the water, looking in. Rates run between about $110 and $150 per day per person (which is $300-$1,000 per person for an entire trip); the best rates are offered early and late in the season.

Cruise schedules and amenities vary widely from ship to ship, even from week to week, depending on the inclinations of captains and the vagaries of Maine weather. A "standard" cruise often features a stop at one or more of the myriad spruce-studded Maine islands (perhaps with a lobster bake on shore), breakfasts served at tables below decks (or perched cross-legged on the deck), and a palpable sense of maritime history as the ships scud through frothy waters. More than a dozen windjammers cruise the Penobscot Bay region during summer (some migrate south to the Caribbean for the winter); the ships vary widely in size and vintage, and accommodations range from cramped and rustic to reasonably spacious and well appointed.

Ideally, you'll have a chance to look at a couple of ships to find one that suits you before signing up. If you can't do that, contact the Maine Windjammer Association (tel. 800/807-9463; www.sailmainecoast.com) for a packet of brochures or simply check its good website of member ships and comparison-shop. If you're trying to book a last-minute windjammer cruise, stop by the chamber of commerce office on the Rockland waterfront and inquire about open berths.