Hidden away on a side street, this tiny contemporary restaurant has a huge menu with big flavors and a welcoming, hip attitude. "We do not serve the food of cowards," owner-chef Kerry Altiero has said. The fare draws liberally from cuisines around the globe. (Mr. Altiero again: "It's comfort food for whatever planet you're from.") Given its wide-ranging culinary inclinations, it's surprising how good everything is. The menu changes so often that the following list is undoubtedly partly or completely out of date, but previous delicious bites have included: char-grilled pork and shrimp cakes with a ginger-lime-coconut sauce; pork ribs in smoked jalapeño sauce; Indian almond chicken; Ducks of Spanish Pleasure (a sort of duck curry, perhaps created in homage to Bob Dylan?); and small plates like gazpacho, roasted corn with pickled banana peppers, grilled rare beef with wasabi, and fried oysters with buttermilk sherry vinegar. Sunday brunch is a recent addition, featuring eggs, "really good" hot dogs, salads, and smoked haddock cakes. Now back open after a September 2007 fire shuttered it briefly, this place provides some of the best value (and best wine and beer lists) of any restaurant in Maine.
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