The south-facing cliffs of Lumpy Ridge, found along Black Canyon in the northeast corner of the park, are a favorite of rock climbers. To access the cliffs, head north out of Estes Park via MacGregor Avenue. Another area that's popular is the Diamond on Longs Peak, but it is a grueling 2-day vertical climb and should be attempted by only the most experienced rock climbers.
The rock walls that entice technical climbers are the same cliffs that birds of prey choose for nesting. Raptor populations have decreased radically since the 1960s due to the increased use of pesticides, the loss of habitat, and hunting. Those drawn to the rough, craggy outcrops of Rocky Mountain National Park include peregrine and prairie falcons, Cooper's and red-tailed hawks, golden eagles, turkey vultures, and kestrels. They generally return to these mountains in March and April to choose nesting sites, and during this time -- usually mid-March to mid-July -- certain areas are closed to all humans. Check with the Backcountry Office or visitor centers to find out which locations are closed during your visit.
Cross-Country Zones & Technical-Climbing Bivouacs -- In addition to the designated backcountry campsites, there are about two dozen cross-country zones. With little traffic and no developed trails or campsites, cross-country zones are the most remote in the park. These isolated areas boast rough and rugged terrain, wet marshy areas, icy cold streams, and thick forests. In addition to the regulations for backcountry hiking and camping discussed above, these zones are limited to human foot traffic, persons expert in the use of map and compass and in "Leave No Trace" techniques. Fires are not permitted. Parties are limited to seven persons. Your camp must be at least 200 feet (about 70 steps) from any water source, must be out of sight and sound from any other party, and must be moved at least 1 mile each day; and your stay in any one zone is limited to 2 nights.
Technical climbers who expect to be out overnight usually set up a bivouac -- a temporary, open-air encampment that is normally found at, or near the base of, a route or on the face of a climb. Designated bivouac zones have been established, and permits, available from the Backcountry Office , are required for both the bivouac site and all vehicles parked at the trail head. Tents are not permitted in bivouac zones. The site must be at least 3 1/2 miles from the trail head; you may not sleep on vegetation, only on rock or snow. Climbers can't make camp until after sundown and must vacate before sunup. Climbing parties are limited to four persons, all of whom must climb.
Some areas restrict the total number of people allowed in bivouac zones, and reservations may be made for these locations after March 1 in person or by mail, and by phone until May 20 (see above for address and phone). The restricted areas as of this writing were Longs Peak, Black Lake, Notchtop Peak, and Sky Pond Area/Andrews Glacier. Other areas neither require nor accept reservations.
Guides & Gear -- The Colorado Mountain School, 341 Moraine Ave. (P.O. Box 1846), Estes Park, CO 80517 (tel. 888/267-7783 or 970/586-5758; www.cmschool.com), is an AMGA accredited year-round guide service, and the sole concessionaire for technical climbing and instruction in Rocky Mountain National Park. The school has programs for all ages; cost for a 2-day excursion is about $350. The school also offers lodging in a hostel-type setting, at about $25 per night per person.
Estes Park Mountain Shop, 2050 Big Thompson Ave. (tel. 866/303-6548 or 970/586-6548; www.estesparkmountainshop.com), has an indoor climbing gym and also offers climbing instruction and guided trips both in and near the national park, as well as a kids' outdoor adventure program in half- and full-day sessions and rentals and sales of climbing and camping equipment.
