Rouen was once one of France's major producers of the fine decorative ceramic ware known as faïence de Rouen. Examples of both antique and contemporary faïence abound, and it's worth picking up one or two pieces. For contemporary faïence, your best bet is Faïencerie Carpentier Augy, 26 rue St-Romain (tel. 02-35-88-77-47). The well-known studio sells reproductions of historical styles in an array of colors.
Another Rouen specialty is les coffret de Rouen. The little hand-painted wooden boxes were all the rage during the 18th and 19th centuries. The original versions continue to be popular, but watch out for modern forgeries.
Rouen is also an antiques capital, with more than 80 vendors in the Old Town. The best hunting ground is in Vieux Rouen (the Old Town), along rue Eau-de-Robec, place Barthélémy, rue Damiette, and rue St-Romain. The city has two flea markets, on Saturday and Sunday at place St-Mare, and on Thursday at place des Emmurés. Medium- and large-scale auctions take place year-round at Les Salles des Ventes, 25 rue du Général-Giraud (tel. 02-35-71-13-50) and 20 rue de la Croix-de-Fer (tel. 02-35-71-54-48).
Other antiques shops worth visiting are Michel Bertran, 108 rue Molière (tel. 02-35-98-24-06), with a good selection of 18th- and 19th-century paintings, especially by School of Rouen Impressionists; Etienne Bertran, 110 rue Molière (tel. 02-35-70-79-96), with its collection of antique books dating to the 1400s; and Patrick Chasset, 12 rue de la Croix-de-Fer (tel. 02-35-70-59-97), for toys and cards from the 1700s and 1800s as well as bottles and glassware. You'll find watercolors by local artists, as well as antique Norman and English engravings, at Atelier St-Romain, 28 rue St-Romain (tel. 02-35-88-76-17).
Lovers of chocolate will discover a veritable paradise at La Chocolatière, 18 rue Guillaume-le-Conquérant (tel. 02-35-71-00-79). The specialty that has attracted local gourmets for as long as anyone can remember is a praline-layered paillardises, rich in velvety chocolate that many readers describe as sinful. For millinery, head for Monique, 58 rue St-Romain (tel. 02-35-98-07-03). The mostly original hats run the gamut from funky to refined -- and you won't pay Paris prices.
