Capoeira -- There are two good schools in Pelourinho where you can either watch or learn capoeira. Mestre Bimba's academy, located on the Rua das Laranjeiras 1, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3492-3197; www.capoeiramestrebimba.com.br), is the best known and well set up to receive foreign students of all levels of experience, even those who want to try it for the first time. Visitors are welcome to have a look during lessons but to see some good capoeira it is best to visit during the demonstrations that are on Tuesday through Friday and Saturday, from 7 to 8pm. In high season there is a second demonstration at 8pm. The school asks for a small contribution to take pictures and to support the school, which offers free classes to children from low-income communities. For those interested in taking a lesson, the academy offers 1-hour lessons for R$15 (US$6.25) per person, no experience required (wear long comfortable pants and a T-shirt or tank top). If you buy a package of 5 or 10 lessons the price drops to R$10 (US$4.20) per lesson. The groups are very small, never more than three or four students per teacher. Those who want to learn to play the Berimbau (the one-string instrument that accompanies the capoeiristas) can take lessons as well for R$20 (US$8.50). Contact the academy to schedule a lesson.
Another popular school is the Associação Brasileira de Capoeira Angola, Rua Gregorio de Matos 38, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3321-3087). This school also holds lessons and regular demonstrations in Pelourinho. Drop-in lessons are held Monday through Friday from 8am to 10am and Monday through Wednesday from 12:30 to 2pm. Each class costs R$20 (US$8.50) or you can purchase a package of six lessons for R$75 (US$31). Contact the office for more details.
Many of the "spontaneous" capoeira demonstrations that take place around Pelourinho and the Mercado de Modelo are held for the benefit of tourists. They're fun to watch, but keep in mind that if you look on for a while and especially if you take pictures, you're expected to contribute some money to the group. Depending on how good the show is and how long I watch, I usually give between R$5 and R$10 (US$2-US$4.20).
Soccer -- The most popular spectator sport in town is soccer. The Otavio Mangabeira Stadium, built in the '50s, holds 80,000 people and hosts many important games. The big local teams are Esporte Clube Bahia and Esporte Clube Vitoria. Contact the tourist information for details on upcoming games or contact the stadium at tel. 071/3243-3322.