Things To Do in Salvador

Brazil's first capital city, Salvador serves simultaneously as the repository of the country's historical heritage and the source of much that is new and vibrant in its culture. Nothing symbolizes this dual role better than Pelourinho. The historic core of Salvador, Pelourinho is a perfectly preserved urban gem from the 16th and 17th centuries, the capital of one of the grandest and richest colonial dominions in the Americas. Pelourinho today has a wealth of richly decorated baroque churches, tiny squares, and fine old colonial mansions. By day, one could wander its cobblestone streets for hours.

At night, Pelourinho assumes its cultural role. Bahia has long been the cultural wellspring of Brazil, the source of what's new in music. Since its revitalization in the '80s, Pelourinho has established itself as one of Salvador's main stages. Unfortunately, the new state government has cut much of the funding for cultural events, and the wonderful programming that kept Pelourinho hopping almost any night of the week has disappeared. Individual bars and restaurants have stepped in to fill the gap, however, and now schedule their own entertainment and events. Check with the Bahiatursa office in Pelourinho for upcoming concerts or shows.

Outside the old city are several good museums, great arts and crafts, and the glittering Baía de Todos os Santos, the bay that attracted the Portuguese to Salvador in the first place. Beyond the bay, warm Atlantic Ocean beaches stretch unbroken from the Farol de Barra lighthouse some 80km (50 miles) up the coast to Praia do Forte.

A Visit to Pelourinho

Make your first stop the Bahiatursa office, located at Rua das Laranjeiras (tel. 071/3321-2133) to pick up maps.

In 1985 the historic core of colonial Salvador was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site by the United Nations. It's well merited. One could spend years getting to know the history of the churches, squares, and colorful colonial mansions in this old part of the city. What follows is but a brief introduction.

Start a tour of Pelourinho in the main square, called the Terreiro de Jesus. Dominating the west end of the square is the 17th-century Catedral Basílica. Flanking the cathedral is the neoclassical Antiga Faculdade de Medicina, now home to the excellent Afro-Brazilian Museum. Also on the north side of the square is the smaller baroque Igreja São Pedro dos Clerigos (Mon-Fri 1-5pm). Facing the cathedral at the far end of the terreiro is the Igreja de Ordem Terceiro de São Domingos de Gusmão. Built between 1713 and 1734, this baroque church suffered through an 1870s renovation that destroyed most of its fine interior painting and tile work. On the south side of this church there's a wide cobblestone street with a tall cross in the middle. This is the Praça Anchieta. The saint on the cross is São Francisco de Xavier, patron saint of Salvador. At the far end of this little praça stand two of the most impressive churches in the city. The large two-towered one on the right is the Igreja de São Francisco; the central element is the surrounding Convento de São Francisco. Next to it is the Igreja de Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, immediately recognizable by its ornately carved sandstone facade. Inside (open Mon-Fri 8am-noon and 1-5pm) is a small green cloister, around the outside of which is some fine blue Portuguese tile.

Back at the Terreiro de Jesus, the two streets on either side of the Church of São Pedro (Rua Joao de Deus and Rua Alfredo de Brito) both run downhill to the Largo Pelourinho. This small, steeply sloping triangular square gets its name from the whipping post that used to stand at the top end. This was where slaves and criminals were flogged. The smaller building at the top of the square, now the Casa de Jorge Amado, used to serve as the city's slave market. Looking downhill, on the right-hand side of the largo you'll find the blue and creamy yellow Nossa Senora do Rosário dos Pretos (Mon-Fri 7:30am-6pm, Sat-Sun 7:30am-noon). Literally translated as Our Lady of the Rosary of the Blacks, the high baroque structure was erected over the course of the 18th century by and for the African slaves who represented the backbone of Salvador's sugar economy. Today, much of the congregation is still of African descent; new paintings inside show the Passion of Christ with an all-black Holy Family, and drums have largely taken the place of the organ in church services (the Tues 5:30pm Mass is particularly well attended). At the far end of the square is the tiny Praça de Reggae. At the lowest point of the Largo Pelourinho a narrow street leads steeply uphill to a trio of old baroque churches, the Igreja de Carmo, the Igreja de Ordem Terceiro de Carmo, and the Igreja do Santissimo Santo do Passo. Only the Ordem Terceiro is open, and the views back over the city are only okay, so it's likely better to retrace your steps and explore one of the other delights of Pelourinho, its hidden interior courtyards. There are four of them: the Praça de Arte, Cultura e Memoria; the Praça Tereza Batista; the Praça Pedro Arcanjo; and the Praça Quincas Berro d'Agua. Their entrances branch off the little streets between the Largo Pelourinho and the Terreiro de Jesus. During the day they contain cafes and artisan booths and museums. At night, nearly every one features a band.

Consider a Freelance Guide

In Pelourinho freelance tour guides armed with ID badges will approach you and try to sell you on a tour of the old town. Some are indeed accredited tour guides; others just have fake IDs. It's nearly impossible to distinguish one from the other, nor is it really that critical; many of the independent guides are excellent. Prices are negotiable, depending on the size of the group, length of tour, time of year, time of the day, and your interests (churches, culture, architecture, museums, and so on). Typically you can expect to pay R$50 to R$75 for a 4-hour tour with two people. It's not a bad idea to test your prospective guide before engaging him. Ask him to give you a quick spiel on whatever sight is close at hand. If he seems to know his stuff and you can understand his English, go ahead and hire him. If you want to make sure you're hiring an accredited guide, stop by the Singtur (guide association) office, Praça José Anchieta 12, second floor, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3322-1017).

The Spectacle of Lavagem do Bonfim

One of the most impressive demonstrations of faith (Catholic and Candomblé) takes place every year on the third Thursday of January on the steps of N.S. do Bonfim. Beloved because he offers protection even to non-Catholics, N.S. do Bonfim is associated by Candomblé followers with Oxalá, the supreme ruler and one of the most important Orixás (deities). On the day of the Lavagem, hundreds of women in their best Bahian outfits (hoop skirts, white turbans, lovely white lace blouses, and colorful jewelry) parade 8km (5 miles) from the N.S. Conceção de Praia church in the lower city out to the N.S. do Bonfim. They carry jugs of perfumed water, and are serenaded on the way by the music of the Sons of Gandhi bloco. Vendors sell food and drinks, and thousands of spectators follow along. At the church, the barefoot Baianas go about scrubbing the steps with brooms. The Catholic Church does not approve of this event and keeps its doors shut on this day. Once the actual washing is completed, the party in front of the church lasts well into the night with music, capoeira, and plenty of food and drink.

Ups & Downs -- The quickest way to move between Pelourinho and the Cidade Baixa (lower city) is via the Lacerda elevator, which takes you from the Praça Tomé de Sousa to the Praça Visconde de Cairu, across from the Mercado Modelo. You can also use the Plano Inclinado do Pilar, a funicular railway farther down the Rua Direita de Santo Antônio, past the Carmo convent. Restored in 2006, the plano inclinado drops you at the Mercado do Ouro. And at R$.10 a ride you don't have to worry about blowing your transportation budget.

Salvador offers wonderful shopping and some of the best crafts in all of Brazil. The best buys include crafts made out of wood, ceramics, or leather; musical instruments; and CDs of axé music. Remember to always bargain.

Art

Pricey but unique pieces can be bought at the many galleries in Pelourinho. Galeria 13, Rua Santa Isabel 13 (tel. 071/3242-7783), has a large exhibit space with regular showings of work by local artists. Galeria de Arte Bel Borba, Rua Luis Viana 14 (tel. 071/3243-9370), specializes in the sculptures and paintings by Bel Borba; his work is colorful and fresh. For top-of-the-line names check out Oxum Casa de Arte, Rua Gregorio de Matos 18 (tel. 071/3321-0617). The large collection of art includes work by Mario Cravo and Carybé, who did the large wood panels of the Orixás in the Afro-Brazilian museum. The Fundação Pierre Verger, in honor of the French photographer and ethnologist who specialized in Afro-Brazilian culture, displays a fabulous collection of his works and sells Verger's amazing photo books; Rua da Misericordia 9, centro histórico (tel. 071/3321-2341).

Shopping Malls

Salvador has a number of shopping malls outside of the downtown core. Shopping Barra, Av. Centenario 2992, Barra (tel. 071/3339-8222), is just a few blocks from the Farol da Barra; it's open Monday through Friday from 10am to 10pm and Saturday from 9am to 8pm. A bit farther out, next to the bus station, is one of the larger malls, Shopping Iguatemi, Av. Tancredo Neves 148, Pituba (tel. 071/3350-5060). Open Monday through Friday from 10am to 10pm and Saturday from 9am to 9pm. Take buses marked RODOVIARIA. Here you'll find everything you need: clothing, souvenirs, books, and CDs, as well as movie theaters and an excellent food court.

Souvenirs

For above-average souvenir T-shirts, check out these stores: Litoral Norte, Rua Gregorio de Matos 30 (tel. 071/3322-3781), sells a beautiful collection of T-shirts and also has some lovely hand-painted hammocks; Boutique Ilê Aiyê, Rua Francisco Muniz Barreto 16 (tel. 071/3321-4193), sells CDs and T-shirts and other merchandise with the Ilê Aiyê band's logo, and part of the funds support the group's educational program; Projeto Axé, Rua das Laranjeiras 9 (tel. 071/3321-7869), is a nonprofit organization that sells great skirts, shorts, kangas, blouses, and other clothing to raise funds to support projects for street children.

Night owls won't lack for options in Salvador. The old city center of Pelourinho hums with music, people, and a lively mix of activities that Brazilians call movimento. Farther out along the beaches music venues are bigger and more geared toward the club crowd, but it is still easy to find places with live music, particularly in the new nightlife enclave of Rio Vermelho. True, the "high arts" of theater, dance, and classical music do suffer a bit in Bahia, but with everything else going on, odds are you won't notice. The scene in Bahia is very laid-back and casual; you won't find any upscale yuppie pretensions here, unless you look really hard.

Music & Dance Clubs

Pelourinho -- In the evenings, Pelourinho often comes alive with music. Two of the most popular venues for concerts are the Praça Quincas Berro D'Agua and the Largo Pedro Archanjo. Check with the Bahiatursa office in Pelourinho or look in the newspaper for information on events (programming has become a bit spottier, alas, since a new state government cutback on cultural funding).

If It's Tuesday, It Must Be Terça da Benção

Tuesday is known in Pelourinho as Terça da Benção (Blessed Tuesday). It's the day parishioners of the São Francisco de Assis Church give out bread and donations to the poor. Somehow, this simple act of charity has grown into a happening street party that kicks off every Tuesday after the 6pm Mass. The most interesting service takes place at N.S. do Rosário dos Pretos, an eclectic event held to the sound of African drums, attended by the church's black parishioners. At 7pm locals and tourists gather at the steps on the Ladeiro do Carmo to watch popular singer Geronimo perform. Afterward, take a walk through Pelourinho. Up and down the streets, music seems to pour from every corner as bands play in little largos or cafes crank their stereos. Inside Praça Teresa Batista, Olodum holds its traditional Tuesday show. Unlike the weekend street scene, this party ends relatively early. By midnight everyone heads home. Even Baianos have to get up early sometimes.

The Mission of Olodum

Olodum is one of the best-known blocos in Salvador, maybe in all of Brazil. Founded in 1979, Olodum started as a recreational group for residents of Pelourinho who had few options during Carnaval. More than 20 years later, Olodum has grown into a cultural phenomenon with international fame, not to mention its own nifty logo, a peace sign filled with reggae colors. The group's mandate is to preserve and value black culture and heritage, and fight all forms of racism and violence. One of the ways they pursue this is through work with young children and teens in some of the poorer neighborhoods of Salvador. Over 150 kids are involved in Olodum-sponsored cultural activities. The money raised by international performances and recordings made with people like Paul Simon help fund the group's educational activities. Every Tuesday night the group performs at the Praça Teresa Batista starting at 8pm. Contact the Olodum office at tel. 071/3321-5010 or www.olodum.com.br for information on concerts and Carnaval rehearsals, or stop in at the gift shop located at Rua Gregorio de Matos 22, Pelourinho.

Gay & Lesbian Bars

A great resource for gay travelers, the Grupo Gay da Bahia, Rua Frei Vicente 24, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3321-1848; www.ggb.org.br), has information on tourism and recreational opportunities in Salvador as well as on local social issues and community activism. Salvador has a small but growing Pride Parade that is usually held in October. Of course the parade includes lots of music and the trio eletrico sound trucks. Famous Bahian artists such as Daniela Mercury and Ivete Sangalo have taken part in previous years. Check the Grupo Gay da Bahia for details on the date. During Carnaval, don't miss the contest for Best Gay Costume, which takes place in front of Salvador city hall and includes drag queen performances and lots of music. One of the more popular Carnaval blocos that counts on a huge gay following is the Bloco dos Mascarados (tel. 071/3237-0066), led by Bahian singer Margaret Menezes. Rehearsals take place from November until Carnaval. Check with the tourist office for the dates and locations of these ensaios.

Salvador's gay scene is not as open as in Rio de Janeiro, but two popular hangouts are late Saturday afternoons at Porto da Barra beach and Sunday at the Barraca Aruba, a beach kiosk at Praia dos Artistas. In town, Avenida Sete de Setembro, from Praça da Sé to Campo Grande (particularly around the Praça da Piedade), as well as Pelourinho's Praça Pedro Arcanjo are known cruising areas.

The dance club at Queens Clube, Rua Teodoro Sampaio 160, just behind the Biblioteca Nacional (tel. 071/328-6220) is open Friday and Saturday midnight to 6am. The sex shop, DVD rentals, and movie screening rooms are open Monday through Saturday 3 to 10pm. Also popular, Off Club, Rua Dias d'Avilla 33, Barra (tel. 071/3267-6215; www.offclub.com.br), attracts a mixed crowd of both male and female clubbers. Open Thursday through Sunday. On Friday the DJs play eclectic flashback hits, while Saturday is house and techno night; the other nights are a mishmash with go-go boys, drag queens, and other performers. Doors don't open until 11:30pm.