Hotels

In days of yore, Salvador's top quality hotels were all located close to the beach, a 15-to-30-minute drive from historic Pelourinho. In recent years, in response to the ever-increasing number of foreign visitors, a number of pousadas have opened up on the edge of Pelourinho, most of them located in restored historic buildings. Visitors now have a much greater range of options, but the central dilemma still remains: you have to decide between staying in something old in Pelourinho or something new on the coast, at 20-minute drive from downtown.

Salvador's peak season ranges from mid-December to early March and maxes out during Carnaval. Hotels make big bucks during this time of year by jacking up their prices to insane heights, usually demanding payment in full upon reservation and requiring a minimum stay of 4 or 5 nights. Most Carnaval packages start at R$1,500 (US$625) and go up to R$4,000 (US$1,666). Even at these prices, rooms often sell out by October or November. The most popular Carnaval hotels are in Barra, as they are right on the beach and the parade route.

Once Carnaval is out of the way, occupancy rates drop significantly, and your bargaining powers increase enormously. In the off season (Apr-June and Aug-Nov) it's worth shopping around, as some hotels give as much as a 50% discount, especially if you are staying a couple of nights.

Prices Skyrocket for Carnaval--Please note that none of the prices listed, even those for high season, remotely reflect the room cost during Carnaval. Most of the hotels have websites with information on special Carnaval packages that you can check out as early as September. Consult with the hotels directly or contact a tour company like Brazil Nuts (www.brazilnuts.com).

Pelourinho

The advantage to staying in Pelourinho is that you get to stay in restored 18th-century buildings, and you're minutes from the bustle and fun of the old city. The disadvantages? Rooms are older and quirkier, parking is difficult, and on Saturday night you're just minutes from the bustle and noise of the old city.

In addition, there is a safety concern. Pelourinho as a whole is quite safe both in the daytime and at night, particularly in the main tourist areas. However, the good pousadas in the Pelourinho district are all located on the Rua Direita de Santo Antonio, which runs along a cliff top at the edge of the Pelourinho. The area around the pousadas is quite safe, but to reach the pousadas, you have to go up a windy street that at the moment has a bit of a blind spot at the top where the old Carmo Convent is being converted into a boutique hotel. Muggings have been reported in this area.

Hopefully by the time this guide goes to print the hotel will have opened, eliminating the blind spot and taking care of what appears to be an intermittent problem. (I have walked this route many times both day and night and never had a problem.) Until then, unless you are with a bigger group, it may be wiser after dark to take a taxi R$5 (US$2) back to your pousada.

Tip: The former Carmo Convent is currently being converted into a luxury boutique hotel and should be starting operations in 2006. (Knock on wood, brick, cement, whatever.) Originally the property was slated to open in 2004 under the Sofitel brand, but after lengthy delays the Pestana group (www.pestana.com) took over the project and looks set to complete the renovations and open the hotel under its Pousadas do Portugal brand. We are keeping our fingers crossed as the opening of this hotel will take care of the only dark spot on the charming Rua Direita de Santo Antonio.

Vitória

Vitória sits on a high cliff top between Pelourinho and Barra. There are few sights or restaurants in this area, but the buildings are modern and the streets tree-lined and (aside from Sete de Setembro) very quiet. It's the closest you can come to Pelourinho and still stay in a modern hotel.

Barra

Barra offers sea, sun, and a good bit of fun in neighborhood restaurants and cafes, while Pelourinho remains in easy striking distance. A number of hotels line the Avenida Oceanica (Av. Presidente Vargas), offering fabulous views of the beach and lighthouse; others are located just around the corner from the lighthouse where the Avenida Oceanica becomes Avenida Sete de Setembro.

Ondina/Rio Vermelho

Ondina begins just around the bend from Barra on the open Atlantic coast. A number of good hotels are located right on the waterfront; some even have private beaches. However, because the hotels have cut off public access to the waterfront, Ondina is not as pleasant a beach neighborhood as Barra.