Restaurants

Bahian cuisine is truly regional, with its own ingredients and flavors not seen elsewhere in Brazil. The coastal version of Bahian cooking is rich in seafood and the distinct African flavors of dendê oil, dried shrimp, and coconut milk. These ingredients are combined into fragrant stews loaded with prawns, oysters, crab, or fish and finished with a handful of fresh cilantro and tangy lime juice. You can't say you have been to Bahia without trying a moqueca de siri-mole (stew with soft-shell crab), a vatapá, the famous bobó de camarão, and the popular acarajé.

A Meal Built for Two--Remember that the portions are very generous; one main course is usually enough for two people. When in doubt ask the waiter "Dá para dois?" (Does it serve two?)

Pelourinho

There is no better place to taste Bahian food than in Pelô, as the locals call Pelourinho. Located mostly in historic colonial houses, restaurants in Pelô provide the perfect backdrop for the exotic flavors of Salvador. Any night is a good night, though Tuesday and weekends are the most bustling. If you have your heart set on one of the most popular ones, such as Maria Mato Mouro or Sorriso da Dadá, make a reservation or head out early (around 8pm).

Comércio

Located at the foot of a cliff directly below Pelourinho, the business and marina district of Comércio is fine for wandering in the daytime during office hours, but come evening the workers head home and the streets become quiet and empty. We recommend taking a taxi instead of walking.

Barra

This beach neighborhood is a popular dining destination for locals; with the many hotels concentrated in this area, it is always a lively spot in the evening. For the best views, you can't beat the patio of Barravento.

The Beaches

There are some excellent restaurants a bit farther out in the beach neighborhoods along the Atlantic coast. Easily accessible by bus, these make a fine destination on their own or in combination with an afternoon on the beach.