Attractions

A Visit to Pelourinho

Make your first stop the Bahiatursa office, located at Rua das Laranjeiras (tel. 071/3321-2133) to pick up maps.

In 1985 the historic core of colonial Salvador was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site by the United Nations. It's well merited. One could spend years getting to know the history of the churches, squares, and colorful colonial mansions in this old part of the city. What follows is but a brief introduction. The place to start a tour of Pelourinho is in the main square, called the Terreiro de Jesus. Dominating the west end of the square is the 17th-century Catedral Basílica. Flanking the cathedral is the neoclassical Antiga Faculdade de Medicina, now home to the excellent Afro-Brazilian Museum. Also on the north side of the square is the smaller baroque Igreja São Pedro dos Clerigos (Mon-Fri 1-5pm). Facing the cathedral at the far end of the terreiro is the Igreja de Ordem Terceiro de São Domingos de Gusmão. Built between 1713 and 1734, this baroque church suffered through an 1870s renovation that destroyed most of its fine interior painting and tile work. On the south side of this church there's a wide cobblestone street with a tall cross in the middle. This is the Praça Anchieta. The saint on the cross is São Francisco de Xavier, patron saint of Salvador. At the far end of this little praça stand two of the most impressive churches in the city. The large two-towered one on the right is the Igreja de São Francisco; the central element is the surrounding Convento de São Francisco. Next to it is the Igreja de Ordem Terceira de São Francisco, immediately recognizable by its ornately carved sandstone facade. Inside (the church is open Mon-Fri 8am-noon and 1-5pm) there's a small green cloister, around the outside of which there's some fine blue Portuguese tile.

Back at the Terreiro de Jesus, the two streets on either side of the Church of São Pedro (Rua Joao de Deus and Rua Alfredo de Brito) both run downhill to the Largo Pelourinho. This small, steeply sloping triangular square gets its name from the whipping post that used to stand at the top end. This was where slaves and criminals were flogged. The smaller building at the top of the square, now the Casa de Jorge Amado, used to serve as the city's slave market. Looking downhill, on the right-hand side of the largo you'll find the blue and creamy yellow Nossa Senora do Rosário dos Pretos (Mon-Fri 7:30am-6pm, Sat-Sun 7:30am-noon). Literally translated as Our Lady of the Rosary of the Blacks, the high baroque structure was erected over the course of the 18th century by and for the African slaves who represented the backbone of Salvador's sugar economy. Today, much of the congregation is still of African descent; new paintings inside show the Passion of Christ with an all-black Holy Family, and drums have largely taken the place of the organ in church services (the Tues 5:30pm Mass is particularly well attended). At the far end of the square is the tiny Praça de Reggae. At the lowest point of the Largo Pelourinho a narrow street leads steeply uphill to a trio of old baroque churches, the Igreja de Carmo, the Igreja de Ordem Terceiro de Carmo, and the Igreja do Santissimo Santo do Passo. Only the Ordem Terceiro is open, and the views back over the city are only okay, so it's likely better to retrace your steps and explore one of the other delights of Pelourinho, its hidden interior courtyards. There are four of them: the Praça de Arte, Cultura e Memoria; the Praça Tereza Batista; the Praça Pedro Arcanjo; and the Praça Quincas Berro d'Água. Their entrances branch off the little streets between the Largo Pelourinho and the Terreiro de Jesus. During the day they contain cafes and artisan booths and museums. At night, nearly every one features a band.

Consider a Freelance Guide

In Pelourinho freelance tour guides armed with ID badges will approach you and try to sell you on a tour of the old town. Some are indeed accredited tour guides; others just have fake IDs. It's nearly impossible to distinguish one from the other, nor is it really that critical; many of the independent guides are excellent. Prices are negotiable, depending on the size of the group, length of tour, time of year, time of the day, and your interests (churches, culture, architecture, museums, and so on). Typically you can expect to pay R$50 (US$25/£14) for a 4-hour tour with two people. It's not a bad idea to test your prospective guide before engaging him. Ask him to give you a quick spiel on whatever sight is close at hand. If he seems to know his stuff and you can understand his English, go ahead and hire him. If you want to make sure you're hiring an accredited guide, stop by the Singtur (guide association) office, Praça José Anchieta 12, second floor, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3322-1017).

The Spectacle of Lavagem do Bonfim

One of the most impressive demonstrations of faith (Catholic and Candomblé) takes place every year on the third Thursday of January on the steps of N.S. do Bonfim. Beloved because he offers protection even to non-Catholics, N.S. do Bonfim is associated by Candomblé followers with Oxalá, the supreme ruler and one of the most important Orixás (deities). On the day of the Lavagem, hundreds of women in their best Bahian outfits (hoop skirts, white turbans, lovely white lace blouses, and colorful jewelry) parade 8km (5 miles) from the N.S. Conceção de Praia in the lower city out to the N.S. do Bonfim. They carry jugs of perfumed water, and are serenaded on the way by the music of the Sons of Gandhi bloco. Vendors sell food and drinks, and thousands of spectators follow along. At the church, the barefoot Baianas go about scrubbing the steps with brooms. The Catholic Church does not approve of this event and keeps its doors shut on this day. Once the actual washing is completed, the party in front of the church lasts well into the night with music, capoeira, and plenty of food and drink.