Nightlife

Salvador has some of the best nightlife in Brazil. After dark, Pelourinho just explodes with music, people and a lively mix of activities that Brazilians call movimento. Wandering from bar to bar and square to square, you'll catch at least five or six different bands playing. Search harder and on any given night in Pelourinho you could probably uncover at least 20 groups playing. Many of these concerts are free; most others cost only a nominal sum. Farther out along the beaches music venues are bigger and more geared towards the club crowd, but it is still easy to find places with live music. True, the "high arts" of theater, dance, and classical music do suffer a bit in Bahia, but with everything else going on, odds are you won't notice. The scene in Bahia is very laid-back and casual; you won't find any upscale yuppie pretensions here, unless you look really hard.

The Mission of Olodum--Olodum is one of the best-known blocos in Salvador, maybe in all of Brazil. Founded in 1979, Olodum started as a recreational group for residents of Pelourinho who had few options during Carnaval. More than 20 years later, Olodum has grown into a cultural phenomenon with international fame, not to mention its own nifty logo, a peace sign filled with reggae colors. The group's mandate is to preserve and value black culture and heritage, and fight all forms of racism and violence. One of the ways they pursue this is through work with young children and teens in some of the poorer neighborhoods of Salvador. Over 150 kids are involved in Olodum-sponsored cultural activities. The money raised by international performances and recordings made with people like Paul Simon help fund the group's educational activities. Every Tuesday night the group performs at the Praça Teresa Batista starting at 8pm. Contact the Olodum office at tel. 071/3321-5010 or www.olodum.com.br for information on concerts and Carnaval rehearsals, or stop in at the gift shop located at Rua Gregorio de Matos 22, Pelourinho.

Bars and Barracas

With over 48km (30 miles) of beach within the city limits, it only makes sense that there would be some excellent beach barracas (kiosks) to keep you hydrated while you frolic in the sun. Some are so popular that people come here without ever setting foot on the sand. Barraca Cabana do Sol, Praia do Flamengo (tel. 071/3374-5832), is a popular daytime kiosk set underneath impressive coconut palms in a lovely garden setting. Very upscale for a barraca, Barraca do Loro, Praia do Aleluia, just before Praia do Flamengo (tel. 071/3374-7509), offers gourmet snacks like octopus and salmon carpaccio, grilled fish, and steamed crab; the drink menu includes wine, cognac, and whiskey. Barraca do Luciano, Avenida Otavio Mangabeira, in front of the Parque de Pituaçu (tel. 071/3461-1761), draws a lot of civil servants, teachers, and other white-collar workers. Very popular are the roscas (vodka drinks with fresh fruit).

Gay & Lesbian Clubs--A great resource for gay travelers, the Grupo Gay da Bahia, Rua Frei Vicente 24, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3321-1848; www.ggb.org.br), has information on tourism and recreational opportunities in Salvador as well as on local social issues and community activism. Salvador has a small but growing Pride Parade, though as yet no permanant date has been set for the event. In 2004 it was held in March and in 2005 it took place in September. Check the Grupo Gay da Bahia for details.

Salvador's gay scene is not as open as in Rio de Janeiro, but two popular times and places are Saturday at Farol da Barra beach and Sunday at the Barraca Aruba, a beach kiosk at Praia dos Artistas. In town, Avenida Sete de Setembro, from Praça da Sé to Campo Grande -- particularly around the Praça da Piedade, as well as Pelhourino's Praça Pedro Arcanjo, are known cruising areas. Note: A Carnaval bloco that debuted in 2001 was GLS (gays, lesbians, and sympathizers). To contact the group for future events call tel. 071/3243-6214.

The dance club at Queens Clube, Rua Teodoro Sampaio 160, just behind the Biblioteca Nacional (tel. 071/328-6220; www.queensclube.com.br), is open Friday and Saturday midnight to 6am. The sex shop, DVD rentals, and movie screening rooms are open Monday through Saturday 3pm to 10pm. Also popular, Off Club, Rua Dias d'Avilla 33, Barra (tel. 071/3267-6215; www.offclub.com.br), attracts a mixed crowd of both male and female clubbers. Open Thursday through Sunday; on Friday the DJs play eclectic flashback hits, while Saturday is house and techno night; the other nights are a mishmash with go-go boys, drag queens, and other performers. Club Mix Ozone, Rua Augusto França 55, Largo Dois de Julho (tel. 071/3321-5373), is a large modern club popular for drag shows and go-go boys.

Pelourinho

In the evenings, Pelourinho transforms itself into one giant music venue. We've given a few suggestions of bars and clubs, but the best tip we can give you is to get out and explore. Especially in the summer, there are concerts every night, and most of them are free. Two of the most popular venues for concerts are the Praça Quincas Berro D'Agua and the Largo Pedro Archanjo. For more detailed program information, stop by the Pelourinho tourist office and pick up the free entertainment guide for a list of all the upcoming events for the month.

If It's Tuesday, It Must Be Terça da Benção--Tuesday is known in Pelourinho as Terça da Benção (Blessed Tuesday). It's the day parishioners of the São Francisco de Assis Church give out bread and donations to the poor. Somehow, this simple act of charity has grown into a happening street party that kicks off every Tuesday after the 6pm Mass. If you want to attend Mass before the festivities kick off, you can attend the one held at the São Francisco church. Much more interesting is the one held at N.S do Rosário dos Pretos, a more eclectic service attended by the church's black parishioners. The square of Terreiro de Jesus is packed with tables, chairs, and dozens of vendors selling beer and pop; others fire up their barbecues and sell some of the best beef and chicken skewers I've ever had in Brazil. Up and down the streets of Pelourinho, music seems to pour from every corner as bands play in little largos or cafes crank their stereos. Inside Praça Teresa Batista, Olodum holds it traditional Tuesday show. Outside a crowd gathers to listen for free to the pounding drum sounds that carry clearly even through thick stone walls. Down in Largo Pelourinho less-established blocos often gather to try out their routines on the crowd. It's the best free show in town. Unlike the weekend street scene, this party ends relatively early. By midnight everyone heads home. Even Baianos have to get up early sometimes.