Pelourinho--The historic heart of the city, Pelourinho is a delight to explore. Indeed, it's so worthwhile, we have already covered it under "The Top Attractions," earlier in this chapter.
Comércio--The Cidade Baixa (lower city) was always the commercial center of Salvador. In the 16th century people preferred to live in the cooler heights of Pelourinho and keep their offices and warehouses on the waterfront below. The concept is the same today, but Comércio, as the area is known, is now planted thick with stubby commercial high-rises. The Elevator Lacerda is the easiest way to access this area -- though there's really little of interest down here except the ferry docks and the crafts fair in the Mercado Modelo. A number of steep, shabby alleys also connect the lower city to the upper city, but it's safer to take the elevator.
VitóriaThis quiet and green neighborhood lies immediately south of Pelourinho. It has a few hotels and some lesser city landmarks such as the Castro Alves Theatre and Campo Grande Square.
Barra--The most popular beach neighborhood close to town, Barra is a neighborhood of restaurants and small shops located south of the city center just where the coastline makes a sharp turn to the east. Many hotels are located here, and in the evenings, locals and tourists mingle in the bars and restaurants. Sights in the area include the Farol da Barra (Barra Lighthouse) and the smaller Forte Santa Maria. The prime attraction, however, is the sunset; small crowds gather to watch the show.
Bonfim/Monte Serrat--Located on a small peninsula that juts out into the bay, Bonfim is home to the Church of Nosso Senhor do Bonfim, one of the most important religious sites in the city. Beloved of both Catholics and Candomblé worshippers (who revere their equivalent deity of Oxalá), the hilltop church draws huge crowds who come to pray or ask for miracles. The Washing of the Steps, which takes place on the third Thursday in January, is one of the year's most colorful religious events. The neighborhoods of Bonfim, Ribeira, and Monte Serat are now mostly home to the lower middle class and working poor, but started out originally as a summer destination with cottages and summer homes. The other worthwhile sight is the Forte de Monte Serrat, which offers fabulous views of Salvador. On Sunday the seawall is packed with families and teenagers out for a stroll.
Ondina & Beaches--Once past Ondina, the coast is an almost uninterrupted string of beaches. Most neighborhoods are very modern and new, with little attraction beyond the beach itself. Popular beaches include Rio Vermelho, Praia dos Artistas, Praia de Piatã, Praia de Itapuã, Praia de Stella Maris, and Praia do Flamengo. The last three are only a hop and a skip from the airport and the new popular nightclub and shopping venue, the Aeroclube.
