Carnaval

Carnaval is Salvador's biggest party of the year. Over a million and a half people (locals and tourists) join in to celebrate. In contrast to Rio's more spectator-oriented celebration, in Salvador the accent is on participation. There are no samba schools with outlandish costumes and big floats -- in fact, there is hardly any samba at all. The beat of choice is axé or Afro axé, the unique Bahian rhythm that combines African percussion with Caribbean reggae and Brazilian energy. The action is out on the streets with the blocos.

In Rio, blocos are a group of locals who gather up a few instruments for an impromptu parade. In Salvador, blocos started out years ago as flatbed trucks with bands and sound systems, leading people on an extended dance through the streets. The concept's still the same, but as the number of participants has grown, Salvador blocos have evolved into more highly organized affairs. All now follow set routes. Many have corporate sponsorship. Some even belong to production companies. Your dancing-through-the-streets-of-Salvador experience now comes with a huge sound system, security guards, and a support vehicle with washrooms and first-aid attendants. Unavoidably, it also comes with a price tag.

The revelers that follow a bloco must buy a T-shirt (abadá) to identify themselves. In return they get to sing and dance behind the music truck in a large cordoned-off area, staffed by security guards who keep troublemakers out. Following the revelers is the support car with a first-aid attendant, bar, and washrooms (to which only abadá wearers have access). If you follow the entire route you can expect to be on your feet for at least 6 hours. Most blocos parade 3 days in a row, and your abadá gives you the right to come all 3 days if you've got the stamina. It is also possible to purchase an abadá for just 1 day.

Carnaval officially begins at 8pm on the Thursday evening before Ash Wednesday, when the mayor of Salvador hands the keys of the city over to King Momo, who will rule for the next 5 days.

Some Carnaval Dos and Don'ts--Do not bring any valuables with you; bring a photocopy of your passport or driver's license instead of the real thing. Buy a disposable camera that tucks into your pocket. Only bring as much money as you think you'll need and spread it out; put some in your pocket and a few bills in your shoe. Do not underestimate the heat, and drink sufficient water or coconut milk. Don't dress up: For blocos just wear your abadá, shorts, and running shoes; otherwise shorts and a tank top will do just fine.

Carnaval Central--Instead of having to go out to the Aeroclube Plaza, the Central do Carnaval now has a store and reservations office in the heart of Pelourinho, Rua Gregorio de Matos 13 (corner of the Rua Laranjeiras), tel. 071/3321-9365. Book early as some of the popular blocos sell out by August!

The End of Carnaval: It Ain't Over 'Til It's Over--In most cities Carnaval comes to a quiet end as partygoers run out of steam in the early hours of Ash Wednesday and finally flop into bed. In Salvador, the party goes out with a bang. Although this event is an informal one, it takes place every year at the Praça Castro Alves. The meeting of the trios (encontro dos trio eletricos) is the gathering of a couple of blocos that have finished their parade and meet to compete for the last bit of energy the crowd has to offer. Usually the party keeps going until the sun comes up. Last year Caetano Veloso and Carlinhos Brown were a few of the prominent musicians who came out for the grand finale and packed the square with tens of thousands of people.

Blocos

Blocos all follow one of three set parade routes and start at designated times. Most blocos will take 4 to 6 hours to complete the course. The routes are Osmar, Dodô, and Batatinha. (Osmar and Dodô are named after the two musicians who first came up with the trio eletrico idea of mounting the band on a flatbed truck in the '50s.) The 7km-long (4 1/4-mile) Osmar route starts at Rua Araujo Pinha in Campo Grande, goes up Avenida Sete de Setembro as far as Praça Castro Alves, and returns to Campo Grande via Avenida Carlos Gomes. The Dodô route was designed in the '80s to accommodate the increased number of blocos. It follows the coastal road from Ponto da Barra to Ondina Beach. Batatinha is the preferred route for the percussion-heavy Afro axé blocos as well as the colorful drag queen blocos. Sticking close to the historic center, Batatinha runs from Praça da Sé to the Praça Municipal, then to Praça Castro Alves, and finishes up in Campo Grande. The blocos parade from Friday to Tuesday, some on 3 days, others on 4. Order and start times vary, so pick up an updated calendar just before Carnaval at one of the tourist offices.

The best resource for all Carnaval programming is the state tourism agency Bahiatursa; they can inform you about all the parades and events that are taking place around town. In addition to the regular tourist information offices they have booths with English-speaking staff along the three parade routes. Another great resource on sale at newsstands is the Guia do Ocio, a monthly arts and entertainment magazine that publishes an amazingly detailed Carnaval edition, R$5 (US$2.10).

See the list below to help you decide which blocos you would like to follow. To purchase an abadá, contact the bloco directly or else call the Central do Carnaval (tel. 071/3372-6000; www.centraldocarnaval.com.br); they represent at least a dozen of the most popular blocos. Prices for the abadás range from R$300 to R$800 (US$125-US$333) for 3 days. The Central can also sell you an abadá for a day if you don't want to commit to the entire 3 days.

Ara Ketu -- Though it's getting more and more known across Brazil, Ara Ketu's roots remain in Salvador where the group works with community organizations and runs music and theater workshops for disadvantaged children and teens. The bloco parades on Saturday and Sunday along the Osmar route and on Monday along the Dodô route. Contact the bloco at tel. 071/3247-6784 or visit the group's office at Av. Oceanica 683, Barra.

Beijo -- One of the most popular blocos that led to the formation of the Banda Beijo (a popular band), Beijo parades on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday along the Osmar route. Contact tel. 071/3336-6100 for more information.

Blocos Axé -- Many of the blocos axé originated in the poorer and overwhelmingly black neighborhoods on the outskirts of Salvador. With the recent revival of black culture and pride, these blocos have become more and more popular and are now part of the mainstream events. The most popular ones are Ilê Aiyê, Olodum, Filhos de Ghandi, Ara Ketu, and Filhas de Oxum.

Blocos Trio -- These are the popular blocos, some with big-name stars and bands that emerged in the '80s when Carnaval in Salvador just exploded in popularity. They all consist of a trio eletrico (the truck with the band and music), the cordas (ropes) that are staffed by cordeiros (bouncers) that form the protected area inside which the participants sing and dance, and finally carro de apoio (support car) with toilets, bar, and first-aid station.

Camaleão -- Founded in 1978 by a group of university students, Camaleão parades Sunday through Tuesday along the Osmar route. Chiclete com Banana is the lead attraction, one of the most popular Bahian bands. This bloco was a recent winner of the best bloco and best band award. Abadás cost R$650 (US$215) but for Carnaval 2006 they were already sold out in early September 2005! Contact tel. 071/3336-6100 for more information.

Cerveja e Cia -- Given that Ivete Sangalo's producer owns this bloco, it only makes sense that Sangalo -- Bahia's new musical sensation -- is the star attraction. The bloco parades Thursday through Saturday along the Dodô beach route. Contact tel. 071/336-6100.

Filhos de Ghandi -- Popular during Carnaval for its symbolic message of peace, this bloco is instantly recognizable for the white Ghandi costumes worn by its 10,000 all-male followers. The bloco parades Sunday through Tuesday (along the Osmar route Sun and Mon and along the Dodô on Tues). To purchase an Abadá (the Ghandi uniform) contact tel. 071/3321-7073.

Filhas de Oxum -- In the male-dominated world of Afro blocos, the all-woman Filhas de Oxum is a breath of fresh axé. Eminently affordable (abadás cost R$80/US$26), the women parade on Saturday, Monday, and Tuesday in Pelourinho; for more information call tel. 071/3321-6334.

Ilê Aiyê -- One of the most traditional Afro blocos, Ilê only lets blacks parade, but everyone is welcome to watch and cheer. Its music is a wonderful blend of reggae and percussion; the drums are phenomenal. The group parades on Saturday, Sunday, and Tuesday along the Osmar route. For abadás contact tel. 071/3388-4969.

Olodum -- Internationally known, Olodum's popularity draws huge crowds. The music is fun, some reggae, a little bit of samba, and lots of drums. Olodum always provides a great show. The group parades on 4 days, Friday and Sunday through Tuesday. Abadás can be purchased at the store in Pelourinho, Rua das Laranjeiras 30, or contact tel. 071/3321-5010.

Timbalada -- Founded by popular musician Carlinhos Brown in 1995, this bloco stands out for its colorful white body paint worn by the musicians and singer. Timbalada parades Friday through Sunday along the Dodô route. Call tel. 071/3245-6999 for further information.

Commitment Shy?--Instead of committing to one specific bloco and following along for hours, you can also get a seat in the stands that line the parade route and watch all the blocos go by. Tickets for box seats (camarote) or tables are expensive. The Central de Carnaval sells tickets to box seats at three different venues, prices range from R$150 to R$250 (US$63-US$105) per person a day. To reserve a seat in one of the bleachers that line the parade route, contact the city hall at tel. 071/3450-2711 or the Central do Carnaval at tel. 071/3372-6000. These go for much less than the box seats, about R$80 to R$130 (US$33-US$54) per day. Some hotels also sell seats; check with the tourist information office for more details.

Rehearsals

Though less organized and structured than the samba school rehearsals in Rio, a small number of blocos do meet regularly in the months leading up to Carnaval. For some this is also an important money generator, and admission can cost as much as R$60 (US$25). However, if you won't be in Salvador during Carnaval, these rehearsals are highly recommended.

The most popular rehearsals are those run by Olodum. On Tuesday nights the group meets at the Praça Teresa Batista s/n, Pelourinho (tel. 071/3321-3208). Tickets are R$20 (US$8.40). Unfortunately the ticket does not allow in-and-out privileges, and Olodum's rehearsal coincides with Terça da Benção, one of the most fun nights in Pelourinho when there are bands and events galore. It's a bit of a tossup which is more fun. On Sundays Olodum holds a free rehearsal starting at 6pm at the Largo do Pelô. Several of Salvador's big names such as Araketu, Ivete Sangalo, and Beijo will hold regular rehearsals in the months leading up to Carnaval. If you are in Salvador between October and Carnaval, check with the tourist office for details on ensaios (rehearsals).

Some great online resources for Carnaval are available on the Web. Though in Portuguese only, they will certainly give you an idea of what things look like: the official city site, www.carnaval.salvador.ba.gov.br, has pictures, important phone numbers, programming details and maps; www.centraldocarnaval.com.br has abadás for sale and provides detailed scheduling and program information. For more information, contact the Central do Carnaval at tel. 071/3372-6000.