What's New

With its upscale dining, full-throttled nightlife, world-class theater, and modern skyline, San Diego has become a big-time city. Unfortunately, you're never too big for a little city hall chicanery. San Diego has gone through an unbelievable, tragicomic series of political embarrassments and scandals over the last several years, none bigger than the back-room financial contretemps that led the New York Times to label the city "Enron by the Sea."

San Diego is facing the most devastating financial crisis in its history, thanks to a creatively maintained city pension fund that has a deficit estimated at up to $2 billion. Mayor Jerry Sanders says he won't raise taxes (including the hotel tax), but locals are expecting big hikes in water and sewer rates -- costs hotels will probably be passing along to visitors. Travelers also should be on the lookout for cuts in staffing and hours at parks, beaches, libraries, and other city facilities, as well as a possible profusion of untended potholes on local streets.

In another governmental development, the City Council has banned smoking from all 17 miles of San Diego beaches and 38,000-plus acres of parkland, including Balboa and Mission Bay parks. Check for posted signs, if the city can afford to put any new ones up, and definitely heed them -- fines start at $250.

Where to Stay -- Hotels, hotels, hotels. San Diego is bursting at the seams with new lodgings. The pack is led by the Hard Rock Hotel, 207 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/702-3000; www.hardrockhotelsd.com), which features a local branch of Nobuyuki Matsuhisa's celebrated Nobu restaurant; a signature club created by impresario Rande Gerber; and 17 "Rock Star" suites, including one designed by the Black Eyed Peas. Not to be outdone, the Ivy Hotel, 600 F St. (tel. 619/814-1000; www.ivyhotel.com), is adding a four-level nightclub, Eden, to the downtown mix, and the hotel also features the Gaslamp Quarter's largest rooftop pool. The Keating, 432 F St. (tel. 619/814-5700; www.thekeating.com), has modern style to burn -- it's the first hotel project from Pininfarina, the Italian design group that is the driving force behind Ferrari and Maserati. The Diegan, 1055 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/702-6666; www.diegan.com), is a condo-hotel tower grafted onto the House of Blues that will offer more dining and entertainment venues, including a sky bar.

The North County is not being neglected either. The Grand Del Mar, 5200 Grand Del Mar Way (tel. 858/350-7600; www.thegranddelmar.com), is that area's latest upscale destination. This golf-and-spa resort's fanciful Mediterranean architecture pays homage to noted architect Addison Mizner. In La Jolla, The Grande Colonial La Jolla, 910 Prospect St. (tel. 888/530-5766; www.thegrandecolonial.com), is working on the renovation of two historic properties adjacent to it: The Little Hotel by the Sea and Garden Terraces. When the $3.5-million project is completed in fall 2007, the two hotels will become part of the Grande Colonial, but will maintain their individual names.

Where to Dine -- The Gaslamp Quarter is home to a wide variety of international cuisines, but 2007 saw the opening of its first Australian eatery, Bondi Bar and Kitchen, 333 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/342-0212; www.thebondi.com). It serves breakfast and keeps going from there until the wee hours. And as you might imagine, things can get pretty lively.

San Diego insiders are raving about The Guild Restaurant + Lounge, 1805 Newton Ave. (tel. 619/564-7584; www.theguildrestaurant.com), in the decidedly non-touristy neighborhood of Barrio Logan, east of downtown. It's a place for lovers of contemporary food and design.

In Hillcrest, The Tractor Room, 3687 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/543-1007; www.thetractorroom.com), bills itself as a "hunting lodge on Fifth," and prominently features game meats like bison, rabbit, venison, and boar. It also has San Diego's largest selection of bourbon, rye, scotch, and whiskey.

Unopened at press time but highly anticipated is Bite, 1417 University Ave., Hillcrest (tel. 619/299-BITE; www.bitesd.com). This is the latest venture from Chris Walsh, one of the city's most creative culinary wizards.

Where to Go -- By the time you read this, the Children's Museum/Museo de los Niños San Diego should be finally settled in its new downtown facility. Designed by the city's most acclaimed architect, Rob Quigley, the museum promises to be something special -- a 50,000-square-foot, three-story space with a soaring atrium; indoor/outdoor interactive galleries; a 250-seat theater; and a cafe.

Kids will also want to note the San Diego Zoo's new Itty Bitty City. This Children's Zoo attraction houses Bug Town, a collection of creepy-crawly insects.

Spooky and educational, the Museum of Unnatural History, 530 Market St., Gaslamp Quarter (tel. 619/238-1220; www.museumofunnaturalhistory.com), highlights the weird and the mysterious with artifacts and interactive exhibits. It's open from 11am to 7pm, Sunday and Wednesday; 11am to midnight, Thursday through Saturday. The museum is appropriate for all ages during the day; after 6pm it's open only to visitors age 11 and older.

A downtown icon that had been left to languish, the Balboa Theatre will once again be hosting performances. Originally opened in 1924, this vaudeville house featured such ornate flourishes as a pair of waterfalls that flanked the stage. Music, dance, theater, and film will once again fill this glorious space beginning in December 2007.

After Dark -- Another glamorous nightspot is set to open in the Gaslamp Quarter at press time. Sin Niteclub, 802 Sixth Ave. (tel. 619/234-4746; www.sinsandiego.tv), will be the latest in high-end hedonism, featuring two bars, bottle service, and VIP rooms with dedicated phone lines that go directly to club staff.