What's New

Southern California made international headlines in October 2007 when firestorms swept through the region, from Santa Barbara to the Mexican border. In San Diego, more than a half million residents were displaced from their homes in the largest evacuation in state history; the blazes here charred more than 300,000 acres and consumed some 1,700 homes and buildings. Most tragically, 10 lives were lost in San Diego. Once the literal and proverbial smoke had cleared, though, the city's tourism infrastructure remained unaffected -- the conflagrations took place mostly in rural areas and bedroom communities.

Meanwhile, the city of San Diego's ongoing financial crisis -- a backroom financial contretemps that led the New York Times to label us "Enron by the Sea" -- is still basically unresolved. Despite an estimated deficit of $2 billion in the city employee pension fund, city business seems to proceed as normal. Mayor Jerry Sanders has not raised taxes, including the hotel tax, but the local hotel and motel association has levied one of its own. All hotels with more than 70 rooms are now adding a 2% assessment that will go toward marketing. It adds up to a 12.5% tax on your hotel bill.

In another governmental development, the city council has banned drinking from all 17 miles of San Diego beaches, as well as coastal parks and bay shores. This is a 1-year trial ban that will be in effect until January 2009. Check for posted signage after that as to whether the prohibition is still in effect; fines max out at $250.

Where to Stay

North County's latest digs is the Sheraton Carlsbad Resort & Spa, 5480 Grand Pacific Dr. (tel. 760-827-2400; www.sheratoncarlsbad.com). Located near LEGOLAND and a new golf course, the Crossings at Carlsbad (tel. 760/444-1800; www.thecrossingsatcarlsbad.com), the Sheraton Carlsbad is designed to appeal to both families and business travelers. Boasting ocean and fairway views, it currently has 129 rooms, but will expand to 350 by 2010.

In downtown San Diego, a high-end condo-hotel is making its long-awaited debut. Originally known as the Diegan, this 22-story luxe property is opening as the Setai San Diego, 1055 Fifth Ave. (tel. 619/702-6666; www.setaisandiego.com). Featuring Zen-chic design, the Setai will also have an upscale signature restaurant, a private screening room, and a recording studio. Although an in-house studio may seem a bit superfluous, it makes more sense once you know the Setai straddles the local House of Blues, and you never can tell when the muse might strike.

The Hyatt Regency Mission Bay Spa and Marina, 1441 Quivira Rd. (tel. 619/224-1234; www.missionbay.hyatt.com), has unveiled its new Blue Marble Spa, part of the property's $65-million sprucing. Utilizing organic products, low-flow showerheads, and other eco-friendly concepts, Blue Marble strives to be as green as possible. There are 11 treatment rooms, including five private outdoor cabanas.

Where to Dine

You can take a culinary tour of the Caribbean without leaving the Gaslamp Quarter at Mangu, 524 Island Ave. (tel. 619/269-3149; www.mangusd.com). Serving lunch and dinner, as well as lots of rum drinks until the wee hours, Mangu takes a pan-island approach with a menu that incorporates the tastes of Cuba, Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and the Dominican Republic -- all with a helping of Miami South Beach glitz on the side.

The Gaslamp has also welcomed a "chic Greek" restaurant, EXY, 789 Sixth Ave. (tel. 619/238-0412; www.exysandiego.com). Look for something far more creative and sophisticated than gyros -- the executive chef is a veteran of several cosmopolitan eateries in San Francisco.

The Hotel del Coronado's ENO, 1500 Orange Ave. (tel. 619/435-6611; www.hoteldel.com), has nothing to do with electronic music pioneers and everything to do with wine. One of the final touches of the Del's $150-million renovation, this indoor/outdoor wine tasting spot offers 500 wines, 35 international cheeses, and sweets created by local chocolatiers.

Burgeoning North Park adds yet another worthy entry to its growing list of high-caliber restaurants. Urban Solace, 3823 30th St. (tel. 619/295-6464; www.urbansolace.net), provides just that, serving contemporary comfort food like lamb meatloaf (with figs, pine nuts, and feta cheese) and cider-and-molasses-glazed free-range chicken. There's a live bluegrass Sunday brunch, too.

Old Town's Jolly Boy Saloon and Restaurant, 4016 Wallace St. (tel. 619/297-3100; www.jollyboyrestaurant.com), has reemerged after an 8-month renovation. Not really such a long time to be closed, considering this historic structure dates back to 1854, when the original Jolly Boy opened. Set within Old Town State Historic Park, the Jolly Boy will feature costumed performers to go along with the meat and seafood menu.

Where to Go

Whether you bowl passionately or ironically, East Village Tavern & Bowl, 930 Market St. (tel. 619/677-2659; www.bowlevt.com), can make room for you -- especially now that it's already expanding. Featuring a logo of skull and crosspins, this hipster haven opened in late 2007 with six lanes, and is now doubling that amount. Situated adjacent to the Gaslamp Quarter, this place has food, good beer on tap, and flatscreen TVs everywhere.

Partnering with an environmental group, the Surfrider Foundation, and the renowned Birch Aquarium, Pelly's Mini Golf, 15555 Jimmy Durante Blvd. (tel. 858/481-0363; www.pellysminigolf.com), aims to make miniature golf an educational experience. Located in Del Mar, every hole on the two 18-hole courses is themed to either surfing or sea life, with informative tidbits about both offered along the way.

After Dark

San Diego's latest nightspot gem is the Jade Theater, 701 C St. (tel. 619/814-5125; www.jadetheater.com). This 14,000-square-foot, tri-level space not only serves imaginative Asian fare (acorn curry soup, crab kimchi), it is a sexy lounge and club, as well. Modernists will love the sleek, minimalist design; each level is meant to reflect a different vibe, with a color scheme that alternates from stark white to opium-den red.