San Diego County has 18 Native American Indian tribes -- more than any other county in the nation. Half of them operate casinos in east and north San Diego County, and the Convention & Visitors Bureau (tel. 619/232-3101; www.sandiego.org) has comprehensive listings and discount coupons on its website.
The most easily accessible casino from the downtown area is Viejas Casino, 5000 Willows Rd. in Alpine (tel. 800/847-6537; www.viejas.com.) -- it's a straight shot out I-8 (exit Willows Rd.), less than a half-hour's drive away. Besides the usual table games, slots, bingo, and satellite wagering, Viejas presents an outdoor summer concert series that draws major artists; there is also an outlet center with more than 50 brand-name retailers. In 2006, the casino added 48,000 square feet of new space, encompassing a VIP lounge and high-end bar, the V Lounge.
The Barona Valley Ranch Resort and Casino is at 1932 Wildcat Canyon Rd., Lakeside (tel. 888/722-7662 or 619/443-2300; www.barona.com). Take I-8 east to Highway 67 north. At Willows Road, turn right and continue to Wildcat Canyon Road.; turn left, and continue 6 miles to the 7,500-acre Barona Reservation (allow 40 min. from downtown). The casino features 2,000 Vegas-style slots, nearly 70 table games, and an off-track betting area. The resort, which includes 400 guest rooms, a spa, and an 18-hole championship golf course, restricts alcohol consumption (the hotel, steakhouse, and golf course only), but allows smoking (the Indian reservations are exempt from California's nonsmoking laws).
Sycuan Resort & Casino is outside El Cajon, at 5469 Casino Way (tel. 800/279-2826 or 619/445-6002; www.sycuan.com). Follow I-8 east for 10 miles to the El Cajon Boulevard exit. Take El Cajon 3 blocks to Washington Avenue, turning right and continuing on Washington as it turns into Dehesa Road. Stay on Dehesa for 5 miles, and follow the signs (allow 30 min. from downtown). Sycuan features 2,000 slots, 65 game tables, a 1,200-seat bingo palace, and a 450-seat theater that features name touring acts; Sycuan's 54 holes of golf are also some of San Diego's best.
To bet on the ponies, go to the Del Mar racetrack during the local racing season (July to mid-Sept).. At any time of the year, you can also bet on races being run far and wide at Surfside Race Place, at the Del Mar fairgrounds (tel. 858/755-1167; www.surfsideraceplace.com).
