Neighborhoods

Downtown, the Gaslamp & Little Italy

San Diego's downtown is an excellent place for leisure travelers to stay. The nightlife and dining in the Gaslamp Quarter and Horton Plaza shopping are close at hand; Balboa Park, Hillcrest, Old Town, and Coronado are less than 10 minutes away by car; and beaches aren't much farther. It's also the city's public-transportation hub, and thus very convenient for car-free visitors.

Many downtown hotels seem designed for the expense-account or trust-fund crowd, but there are more moderate choices, in terms of price. There's the colorful, modern Bristol Hotel, 1055 First Ave. (tel. 800/662-4477 or 619/232-6141; www.bristolhotelsandiego.com), adjacent to the Gaslamp Quarter; and in the budget category, you can't beat the 260-room 500 West, 500 W. Broadway (tel. 619/234-5252; www.500westhotel.com). It offers small but comfortable rooms for $69 to $89 a night in a seven-story building dating to 1924. It has contemporary style, history, and a good location, but bathrooms are down the hall. Cheaper still are downtown's two hostels.

Inexpensive -- Inexpensive motels line Pacific Highway between the airport and downtown. The Harbor View Days Inn Suites, 1919 Pacific Hwy. at Grape Street (tel. 800/325-2525 or 619/232-1077; www.daysinn.com), is within walking distance of the Embarcadero, the Maritime Museum, and the Harbor Excursion. Rates start around $90.

Near the Airport

San Diego's airport has the unusual distinction of being virtually in the downtown area. Although immediate neighbors grouse about the noise and decreased property values, this is good news for travelers: The accommodations reviewed in the downtown, Hillcrest, and Old Town/Mission Valley sections are only 5 to 15 minutes from the airport.

For those who wish to stay even closer, there are two good airport hotels -- these bayside properties won't remind you of the dives found near most airports. The 1,045-room Sheraton San Diego Hotel & Marina, 1380 Harbor Island Dr. (tel. 800/325-3535 or 619/291-2900; www.starwoodhotels.com), offers rooms from $249. At the 208-room Hilton San Diego Airport/Harbor Island, 1960 Harbor Island Dr. (tel. 800/445-8667 or 619/291-6700; www.hilton.com), rooms start at $269. Both hotels offer a marina view, a pool, and a 10-minute drive to downtown San Diego -- as always, hefty discounts are usually available.

Hillcrest & Uptown

Although they're no longer a secret, the gentrified historic neighborhoods north of downtown are still something of a bargain. They're convenient to Balboa Park and offer easy access to the rest of town. Filled with casual and upscale restaurants, eclectic shops, and percolating nightlife, the area is also easy to navigate. All of the following accommodations cater to the mainstream market and attract a gay and lesbian clientele, as well.

A note on driving directions: You can reach all of these accommodations from I-5.

Old Town & Mission Valley

Old Town is a popular area for families because of its proximity to Old Town State Historic Park and other attractions that are within walking distance. SeaWorld and the San Diego Zoo are within a 10-minute drive. Around the corner is Mission Valley, where you'll find the city's largest collection of hotels offering rooms under $100 a night. Mission Valley lacks much personality -- this is the spot for chain restaurants and shopping malls, not gardens or water views. But it caters to convention groups, families visiting the University of San Diego or San Diego State University, and leisure travelers drawn by the lower prices and competitive facilities. A note on driving directions: All Old Town and Mission Valley hotels are reached from either I-5 or I-8.

Inexpensive -- Room rates at properties on Hotel Circle are significantly cheaper than those in many other parts of the city. You'll find a cluster of inexpensive chain hotels and motels, including Best Western Seven Seas (tel. 800/421-6662 or 619/291-1300), Mission Valley Travelodge (tel. 800/255-3050 or 619/297-2271), Ramada Plaza (tel. 800/532-4241 or 619/291-6500), and Vagabond Inn-Hotel Circle (tel. 800/522-1555 or 619/297-1691).

Mission Bay & the Beaches

If the beach and aquatic activities are front-and-center on your San Diego agenda, this part of town may be just the ticket. Although the beach communities don't offer much in the way of cultural or upscale attractions, downtown and Balboa Park are only a 15-minute drive away. Some hotels are right on Mission Bay, San Diego's water playground; they're usually good choices for families. Ocean Beach is more neighborhood-oriented and easygoing, while Mission Beach and Pacific Beach provide a taste of the transient beach-bum lifestyle -- they can be a bit raucous at times, especially in summer. If you're looking for a more refined landing, head to La Jolla or Coronado.

Accommodations here tend to book up solid on summer weekends and even some weekdays (rates shown are for summer). But discounts can be found, especially for those who try walk-up bookings on the afternoon of arrival -- admittedly, a risky proposition on a Friday or Saturday in July and August. A note on driving directions: All directions are provided from I-5.

La Jolla

"La Jolla" is thought by many to be misspelled Spanish for "the jewel," while others believe the name is derived from an indigenous word. One look at La Jolla's beautiful coastline and upscale downtown village, and you'll be firmly in the Spanish camp. Bargain accommodations aren't easy to find in this wealthy, conservative community. But remember, most hotels -- even those in the "Very Expensive" category -- have occupancy-driven rates.

If a modern business hotel is more your style, chain hotels farther afield include the Hyatt Regency, 3777 La Jolla Village Dr. (tel. 800/233-1234 or 858/552-1234). It's a glam, business-oriented place with several good restaurants next door. The Marriott Residence Inn, 8901 Gilman Dr. (tel. 800/331-3131 or 858/587-1770), is a good choice for those who want a fully equipped kitchen and more space. Both are near the University of California, San Diego.

A note on driving directions: From I-5 north, use the La Jolla Parkway exit or from I-5 south take the La Jolla Village Drive West exit, both of which merge with Torrey Pines Road.

Inexpensive -- Wealthy, image-conscious La Jolla is really not the best place for deep bargains, but if you're determined to stay here as cheaply as possible, you won't do better than the La Jolla Village Lodge, 1141 Silverado St., at Herschel Avenue (tel. 877/551-2001 or 858/551-2001; www.lajollavillagelodge.com). This 30-room motel is standard Americana, arranged around a small parking lot with cinder-block construction and small, basic rooms. Rates vary wildly by season and day of the week -- a room that costs $80 midweek in February doubles in price for a summer weekend. Plan your stay accordingly.

Coronado

The "island" (really a peninsula) of Coronado is a great escape. It has quiet, architecturally rich streets, a small-town, Navy-oriented atmosphere, and one of the state's most beautiful and welcoming beaches. Coronado's resorts are especially popular with Southern California and Arizona families for weekend escapes. Although downtown San Diego is just a 10-minute drive or 20-minute ferry ride away, you may feel a bit isolated in Coronado, so it isn't your best choice if you're planning to spend lots of time in more central parts of the city.

A note on driving directions: To reach the places listed, take I-5 to the Coronado Bridge, and then follow individual directions.

A Century of Intrigue: Scenes from the Hotel del Coronado -- San Diego's romantic Hotel del Coronado is an unmistakable landmark with a colorful past. When it opened in 1888, it was among the first buildings with Thomas Edison's new invention, electric light. Its own electrical power plant supplied the entire city of Coronado until 1922. Author L. Frank Baum, a frequent guest, designed the Crown Room's original crown-shaped chandeliers. He wrote several of the books in his beloved Wizard of Oz series in Coronado, and some believe he modeled elements of the Emerald City after the Del.

The hotel has played host to royalty and celebrities as well. The first visiting monarch was Kalakaua, Hawaii's last king, who spent Christmas here in 1890. But the best-known royal guest was Edward, Prince of Wales (later King Edward VIII, and then Duke of Windsor). He came to the hotel in April 1920, the first British royal to visit California. Of the many lavish social affairs held during his stay, at least two were attended by Wallis Simpson (then Navy wife Wallis Warfield). Though some like to speculate that their love affair, which culminated in his abdication of the throne, might have begun right here, it's very unlikely it did. Her official introduction to him came 15 years later in London.

In 1927, San Diego's beloved son, Charles Lindbergh, was honored here following his historic 33 1/2-hour solo flight across the Atlantic. Hollywood stars including Mary Pickford, Greta Garbo, Charlie Chaplin, and Esther Williams have flocked to the Del. Henry James wrote in 1905 of "the charming sweetness and comfort of this spot." The hotel has also hosted 11 U.S. presidents. Perhaps most famously, director Billy Wilder filmed Some Like It Hot at the hotel with Marilyn Monroe, Tony Curtis, and Jack Lemmon. The Stunt Man, starring Peter O'Toole, was also filmed here, in 1980. And some guests have never left: The ghost of Kate Morgan, whose body was found in 1892, supposedly still roams the halls -- room 3327 has a reputation for being haunted. Visitors and guests intrigued by the Hotel Del's past can stroll through the lower-level History Gallery, a mini museum of hotel memorabilia.