Nine-Ten

Frommer's Review

This warmly stylish and understated space is the place for market-fresh cuisine, prepared by Jason Knibb, another member of San Diego's cadre of skilled young chefs. Knibb, who was mentored by such culinary figures as Wolfgang Puck, Roy Yamaguchi, and Hans Rockenwagner, presides over a shape-shifting, seasonal menu that's best enjoyed via small-plate grazings -- past offerings have included espresso and chocolate-braised boneless short ribs, Maine scallops with apple risotto, and harissa marinated shrimp. Or better yet, turn yourself over to the "Mercy of the Chef," a five-course tasting menu for $70, or $110 with wine pairings (your whole table has to play along, though). When you're looking for a classy fine-dining experience -- without the old-guard attitude -- this hotel eatery fits the bill very nicely.

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