Santander Travel Guide

393km (244 miles) N of Madrid, 116km (72 miles) NW of Bilbao

Santander, capital city of Cantabria, has always been a rival of San Sebastián, though it never attained the status of that Basque resort to the east. Santander became a royal residence from 1913 to 1930, after city officials presented the English–style Magdalena Palace to Alfonso XIII. Don’t expect much medieval ambience here, but there’s plenty of modern charm. After Santander’s old quarter was ravaged by a 1941 fire, it was rebuilt in a grand resort style with wide boulevards, a waterfront promenade, sidewalk cafes, restaurants, and hotels.

Ferry service between the city and the United Kingdom and Ireland has made Santander especially popular with Brits and Irish, for whom the city is the first sandy toehold in Iberia.

Many visitors to Santander head for El Sardinero, a resort less than 2.5km (1 1/2 miles) from the city. Buses and trolleys make the short run between the city center and El Sardinero both day and night.

Besides hotels and restaurants, Santander has three beaches, Playa de Castaneda, Playa del Sardinero, and Playa de la Concha. If they become too crowded, take a 15-minute boat ride to El Puntal, a beautiful beach that is rarely crowded, even in August.

If you don't like crowds or beaches, go up to the lighthouse, a little more than 2km (1 1/4 miles) from El Sardinero, where the views are wide-ranging.