Active Pursuits

Beaches

Santorini's beaches may not be the best in the Cyclades, but the volcanic black and red sand here is unique in these isles -- and gets very hot, very fast. Kamari, a little over halfway down the east coast, has the largest beach on the island. It's also the most developed, lined by hotels, restaurants, shops, and clubs. The natural setting is excellent, at the foot of cliffs rising precipitously toward Ancient Thira, but the black-pebbled beach becomes unpleasantly crowded in July and August. Volcano Diving Center (tel. 22860/33-177; www.scubagreece.com), at Kamari, offers guided snorkel swims for around 20€ ($26) and scuba lessons from around 50€ ($65). Perissa, to the south, is another increasingly crowded beach resort, albeit one with beautiful black sand. Red beach (Paralia Kokkini), at the end of the road to Ancient Akrotiri, gets its name from its small red volcanic pebbles; it is -- but for how long? -- usually much less crowded than Kamari and Perissa. All three beaches have accommodations, cafes, and tavernas.

Bicycling

Santorini's roads are in fairly good condition; it's the drivers you need to worry about: Local drivers know the roads with their eyes shut (and sometimes seem to drive that way) and visitors study maps as they drive. That said, you can rent high-quality suspension mountain bikes from 15€ ($20) per day from Moto Chris (tel. 22860/23-431) in Fira and Moto Piazza (tel. 22860/71-055) in Ia. It's a good idea to check the brakes and steering before you set off.

Walking

If it's not too hot when you are here, there are a great many walks you can enjoy. Here are a few.

Fira to Oia -- The path from Fira to Oia (10km/6 miles) follows the edge of the caldera, passes several churches, and climbs two substantial hills along the way. Beginning at Fira, take the pedestrian path on the caldera rim, climbing past the Catholic Cathedral to the villages of Firostephani and Imerovigli. In Imerovigli, signs on the path point the way to Oia; you'll be okay so long as you continue north, eventually reaching a dirt path along the caldera rim that parallels the vehicular road. The trail leaves the vicinity of the road with each of the next two ascents, returning to the road in the valleys. The descent into Oia eventually leads to the main pedestrian street in town. Allow yourself at least 2 hours. If you end up at Oia around sunset, you'll feel that every minute of the walk was worth it.

Imerovigli & Skaros -- In Imerovigli, a rocky promontory jutting into the sea is known locally as Skaros. From medieval times until the early 1800s, this absurdly small spot was home to the island's administrative offices. There is little to be seen of the Skaros castle now; it probably collapsed during a 19th-century earthquake. Skaros's fantastic view of the caldera is especially nice at sunset. Getting out on the promontory takes just enough effort that it is usually a tranquil haven from the crowds and bustle of the adjacent towns. The trail (signposted) descends steeply to the isthmus connecting Skaros with the mainland. The path wraps around the promontory, after a mile reaching a small chapel with a panoramic view of the caldera. On the way, note the cliffs of glassy black volcanic rock, beautifully reflecting the brilliant sunlight. People used this rock to decorate many of the older buildings in Santorini.

Kamari to Ancient Thira -- The trail from Kamari to the site of Ancient Thira is steep but doable. It passes the beautiful site of Santorini's only freshwater spring, which you will wish to drink dry. To reach the trail head from Kamari, take the road (in the direction of Ancient Thira) past the Kamari beach parking, and turn right into the driveway of the hotel opposite Hotel Annetta, to the right of a minimarket. The trail begins behind the hotel. Climbing quickly by means of sharp switchbacks, the trail soon reaches a small chapel with a terrace and olive trees at the mouth of a cave. You can walk into the cave, which echoes with purling water, a surprising and miraculous sound in this arid place. Continuing upward, the trail rejoins the car road after a few more switchbacks, about 300m (984 ft.) from Ancient Thira. The full ascent from Kamari takes a good hour.

A Different Santorini

A different way to explore Santorini is the 1-hour submarine tour beneath the caldera's surface. It sinks 25 to 30m (82-98 ft.) below the surface and offers you a glimpse into the submerged volcanic crater. The trip costs 50€ ($65); information is available at most travel agents and at tel. 22860/28-900.