Hotels

As noted, Santorini is stuffed to the gills with visitors in July and August; try to make a reservation with a deposit at least 2 months in advance; we hear travelers' tales of people sitting miserably in cafes all night. We also hear tales of hotels doubling the price on remaining rooms. Except in July and August, don't accept lodging offered at the port unless you're exhausted and don't care how meager the room is and how remote the village when you wake up the next morning. In July and August, be grateful for whatever you get if you show up without a reservation. Tip: If you made your reservation by e-mail, be sure to arrive with a printout of your reservation confirmation.

The island's unusual cave houses have inspired many hotel designers. Barrel-vaulted ceilings and perhaps even a bathroom carved into the rock distinguish a typical cave house. Built for earthquake resistance and economy, some of the spaces may at first strike you as cramped; like most newcomers, you'll soon see them as part of the island's special charm. The best of them are designed with high ceilings, airy rooms, and good cross-ventilation, and because they are carved into the cliff face, they remain relatively cool throughout the summer.

Many apartments and villas have efficiency kitchens, but the facilities may be minimal. If you plan to do much cooking, check first to see what's in the drawers and cupboards, or you may find yourself frustrated if you try to prepare anything more elaborate than a cup of coffee.

Fira -- In addition to the choices listed, we've had good reports on the quiet Hotel Atlantis (tel. 22860/22-232), where guests can spend the sunset hours with a bottle of wine on the balcony overlooking the caldera. Note: Due to the noise in Fira, you may want to consider staying in one of the villages out on the island, unless you stay in one of the quieter hotels suggested here.

Firostephani -- This quieter and less expensive neighborhood is just a 10-minute walk from Fira. The views of the caldera are just as good, if not better.

Imerovigli -- The next village north along the caldera rim is so named because it is the first place on the island from which you can see the rising sun. The name translates as "day vigil." By virtue of its height, Imerovigli also has the best views on this part of the caldera.

While everyone else is jostling for a place to see the sunset at Oia, head to Imerovigli and take the path over to the promontory of Skaros, with the picturesque remains of its medieval kastro. Amazingly, this deserted and isolated spot was the island's medieval capital. It's a blissful place to watch the sunset.

Imerovigli and Oia have a considerable number of attractive and comfortable places to stay. In addition to the places listed below, you might want to consider La Maltese (tel. 22860/24-701; www.lamaltese.com), a member of the Relais & Châteaux, in a restored sea captain's neoclassical mansion, now fitted out with indoor and outdoor pools, hammam and sauna, restaurant and piano bar, and, of course, that caldera view.

Karterados -- About 2km (1 mile) southeast of Fira, this small village knows the tourist ropes, and has many new hotels and rooms to let. Buses stop at the top of Karterados's main street on their ways to Kamari, Perissa, and Akrotiri. Nevertheless, the location is somewhat inconvenient: not especially close to Fira or to the beach. Karterados beach is a 3km (2-mile) walk from the center of town. Get to Monolithos, a longer beach, by continuing south along the water's edge an additional half-mile.

Oia -- Oia's chic shops (check out The Art Gallery and Art Gallery Oia on Oia's meandering main drag), boutique hotels, and gorgeous sunsets make it an increasingly popular place to stay or to visit -- especially for travelers who find Fira too frenetic.

If you're running low on reading material by the time you get to Santorini, head to Atlantis Books (tel. 22860/72-346; www.atlantisbooks.org) in Oia, run by a group of expat Brits and Americans as well as several Greeks. You'll find everything from guidebooks and detective novels for the beach to poetry and philosophy.

Kamari -- Tour groups book most of the hotels at Santorini's best and best-known beach resort in the summer. (We recommend one that is often group-free.) If you can't find a room, try the local office of Kamari Tours (tel. 22860/31-390 or 22860/31-455), which manages many of the hotels in Kamari and may be able to find you a vacancy. Many hotels here offer substantial discounts if you book online.