São Paulo is the gourmet capital of Brazil. It's the city with the money to attract the country's best chefs, with the clientele to pay the tab at the most outstanding restaurants. Plus, with no beaches or mountains to play on, Paulistas amuse themselves by eating out. People dress up for dinner here (or more than they would elsewhere in the country) and usually go out around 9 or 10pm at the earliest. It's becoming more common for restaurants to accept reservations, but many still don't. If waiting for a table drives you to distraction, better to arrive unfashionably early at 8pm.
The variety of cuisine is larger than anywhere in the country. Like New York or Toronto, São Paulo is a city of immigrants. Many of the city's best restaurants are Italian. However, the city has a number of top Middle Eastern restaurants, as well as the best Japanese food in the country, plus Spanish, Portuguese, Bahian, and even Thai cuisine. Churrascarias are always a favorite, as are lunchtime kilo spots, which mad-for-work Paulistas see as the perfect way to fuel up for long hours at the office.
The Guia São Paulo, the entertainment listing published in the Friday Folha de São Paulo newspaper, contains a detailed restaurant section, handy for confirming hours and phone numbers. Also note that the long street names are often abbreviated by Paulistas; for example, the Rua José Maria Lisboa may also be known as Rua Lisboa.
Higienópolis
Moderate -- The Higienópolis Dining Triangle -- Smack in the middle of Higienópolis just behind the FAAP sits the delightful Praça Vila Boim. A lovely three-sided square with beautiful trees, the praça offers a number of great casual dining options. Sushi lovers will be pleased to find Sushi Papaia (Praça Vila Boim 93; tel. 011/3666-2086). The menu offers a variety of sushi and sashimi; the restaurant also serves heaping plates of yakisoba noodles and sizzling teppanyaki stir-fries. If you're in the mood for a perfectly grilled steak, look no further than the Empório Natan (Praça Vila Boim 73; tel. 011/3828-1402). This new restaurant specializes in Argentine and Angus steaks. In the mood for carbs? Try Piola (Praça Vila Boim 49; tel. 011/3663-6539). This pizzeria is almost as famous for its edgy, industrial-chic decor as it is for its pizza. The 30 combos, including the Rimini (smoked salmon and ricotta) and the Mantova (mozzarella, brie, fresh tomatoes, and arugula), are sure to please everyone.
