Restaurants in Sao Paulo
São Paulo is the gourmet capital of Brazil. It's the city with the money to attract the country's best chefs, with the clientele to pay the tab at the most outstanding restaurants. Plus, with no beaches or mountains to play on, Paulistas amuse themselves by eating out. People dress up for dinner here (or more than they would elsewhere in the country) and usually go out around 9 or 10pm at the earliest. Though it's becoming more common for restaurants to accept reservations, many will do so only up to 9pm. After that, you have to take your chances. If waiting for a table drives you to distraction, better to arrive unfashionably early at 8pm.
The variety of cuisine is larger than anywhere else in the country. Like New York or Toronto, São Paulo is a city of immigrants. Many of the city's best restaurants are Italian. However, the city has a number of top Middle Eastern restaurants, as well as the best Japanese food in the country, plus Spanish, Portuguese, Bahian, and even Thai cuisine. Churrascarias are always a favorite, as are lunchtime kilo spots, which mad-for-work Paulistas see as the perfect way to fuel up for long hours at the office.
The Guia São Paulo, the entertainment listing published in the Friday Folha de São Paulo newspaper, contains a detailed restaurant section, handy for confirming hours and phone numbers. Also note that the long street names are often abbreviated by Paulistas; for example, the Rua José Maria Lisboa may also be known as Rua Lisboa.
Higienópolis
The Higienópolis Dining Triangle Smack in the middle of Higienópolis just behind the FAAP sits the delightful Praça Vila Boim. A lovely three-sided square with beautiful trees, the praça offers great casual dining options covering most of the world's cuisines. Sushi lovers will be pleased to find Sushi Papaia (tel. 011/3666-2086; www.sushipapaia.com.br). For pizza lovers there's Piola (tel. 011/3663-6539; www.piola.it), famous almost as much for its edgy, industrial-chic decor as it is for its 30 pizza combinations. Favorites include the Rimini (smoked salmon and ricotta) and the Mantova (mozzarella, brie, fresh tomatoes, and arugula). For a great burger and a heavy helping of nostalgia try the Fifties (tel. 011/5094-5454; www.thefifties.com.br), an old-style diner offering burgers, chili dogs, shakes, and fries. If steak is on your mind, look no further than the Empório Natan (tel. 011/3828-1402), which specializes in Argentine and Angus cuts. For Mexican lovers, there's SiSenor (tel. 011/3476-2538; www.sisenor.com.br), with an excellent selection of tacos, enchiladas, and burritos.
If This Is Higienópolis, It Must Be French -- Deprived of their sought-after Brazilian colony in the 1500s, the French appear to have decided to take over Higienópolis, or at least a goodly portion of its restaurants. In addition to the La Brasserie Erick Jacquin, there's a pair of side-by-side Parisian bistros just around the corner on the Rua Pará. The Ici Bistro, Rua Pará 36 (tel. 011/3257-4064; www.icibistro.com.br; Mon-Fri noon-3pm and 7pm-midnight, Sat noon-4pm and 7:30pm-12:30am, Sun noon-5pm), offers top-quality cuisine by a cordon bleu trained chef, plus a rooftop terrace with lighter quicker fare. The Mercearia do Francês, Rua Itacolomi 636 (tel. 011/3214-1295; www.merceariadofrances.com.br; Mon-Fri noon-3:30pm and 7pm-midnight, Sat noon-5pm and 7pm-1am, Sun noon-5pm), offers more casual French fare, plus a replica of the Eiffel Tower on its patio. And if that wasn't enough, over at the Praça Vila Boim (in the Higienópolis Dining Triangle), where the rest of the world also has a foothold, there's Le Vin Bistro, Rua Armando Penteado 25 (tel. 011/3668-7400; www.levin.com.br; Mon-Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-11pm).
- Café
7 Molinos
When you're ready to take a break from browsing the upscale boutiques of Jardins, retreat to this lovely café/bistro and bakery. The menu offers a wide variety of light snacks, including Spanish tortillas, soups, sandwiches, and quiches. There's also a very affordable daily lunch…$$Consolação - Middle Eastern
Arabia
Award-winning Arabia serves up delicious Middle Eastern cuisine based on the family recipes of chef Leila Youssef Kuczynski, whose family hails from Lebanon. The large menu lists many well-known favorites, such as falafel (fried chickpea …$$$Jardins - Brazilian
Capim Santo
Escape from the hectic bustle of São Paulo with a meal in Capim Santo's lush garden. The restaurant sets out a beautiful all-you-can-eat buffet spread for lunch, with a selection of 15 salads and 14 hot entrees, including fish, seafood, chicken, beef, and pasta. During the evening,…$$$Cerqueira César - Brazilian
Dalva e Dito
Alex Atala, Brazil's most famous chef, is best known for his restaurant DOM, hailed as the top restaurant in South America. However, for those who don't like to reserve ahead of time and wish to spend a little less on a meal, there's a much more affordable way to get the full Alex…$$$Cerqueira Cesar - Italian
Famiglia Mancini
Many Paulistas love Italian food, and one of the city's most beloved Italian restaurants is the bustling Famiglia Mancini, a noisy cantina downtown with checkered tablecloths that always draws a crowd. What keeps bringing me back isn't the excellent pasta, risotto, or lasagna—it's…$$Bela Vista - Brazilian
Figueira Rubaiyat
For a special night, wow your dining partner with a table under the branches of a magnificent 130-year-old fig tree that forms the centerpiece of Figueira Rubaiyat's front dining room. The restaurant also has a well-deserved reputation for the quality of…$$$Jardim Paulista - Steak
Fogo de Chão
One of the best all-you-can-eat steakhouses in São Paulo, this high-end chain (there are branches in more than a dozen American cities) was founded in 1979 by two brothers in Porto Alegre in southern Brazil. More than three decades later, the restaurant has remained loyal to…$$$Jardins - Bakery/Deli
Galeria dos Pães
The Galeria dos Pães has billed itself as a bakery ever since it opened in 1936, but that doesn't quite do it justice. Today the Galeria is open 24 hours a day, and has boomed into a large bakery, deli, wine shop, grocery store, and café all rolled into one. Pick…$Jardim America - Italian
Káa
Behind an unassuming door lies one of São Paulo's most beautiful dining venues. Káa is an immense space with a soaring glass ceiling; the high back wall is covered with thousands of plants, forming a 200-foot-long living garden. Designed by architect Arthur Casas, no stranger to…$$$Vila Nova Conceição - Steak
Martín Fierro
To satisfy a hankering for a perfectly grilled steak, head to this small Vila Madalena eatery that serves up Argentinian beef. The dozen tables in this cozy restaurant sit on a shaded veranda, so it's not the best destination on a cold or rainy day, but they fill…$$Vila Madalena - Burgers
Meats
Meats is taking the hamburger to a whole new level. This ambitious gourmet burger joint is a cross between a stylish restaurant and an American diner. Of course, you can order a plain hamburger, but why not try a burger with mozzarella cheese, honey wasabi sauce, and …$$Pinheiros - Asian Fusion
Mestiço
Even after more than 15 years, Mestiço remains one of my favorite restaurants in São Paulo. I've never been disappointed by the friendly staff or the efficient kitchen that consistently serves up delicious Asian-fusion fare, including some excellent Thai dishes and great vegetarian…$$Consolação - Gelato
Puro Gusto
Italian-owned gelato shop Puro Gusto opened its doors in December 2013 on upscale Rua Oscar Freire, and became an instant hit. Join the line while you watch the gelato makers at work through the glass window that separates the kitchen from the shop.…$Jardins - Chinese
Rong He
This popular Chinese noodle restaurant is a favorite lunchtime destination for hungry Paulistas. The restaurant's best-selling dish is the noodle stir-fry. Watch through the glass window as the cook prepares the noodles by hand, kneading and pulling apart…$Vila Mariana - Italian
Roperto
There are numerous excellent restaurants around Rua 13 de Maio, the main drag of Bixiga, São Paulo's Little Italy, but the classic Cantina Roperto, founded in 1941, is one of my favorites. Elderly waiters dressed in black-and-white uniforms welcome guests to the old-fashioned dining…$$Bela Vista - Spanish/Tapas
Sancho Bar y Tapas
This noisy, lively Spanish tapas bar draws quite a crowd who bask in the warm glow of its red neon lighting. Expect to wait an hour, especially on Fridays and Saturdays, but the food is worth it—and you can pass the time by sipping a cocktail while…$$Consolação - Japanese
Sushi-Lika
Liberdade, São Paulo's Japanese neighborhood, is home to dozens of Japanese restaurants. Among these, Sushi-Lika stands out for its bright, modern dining room and the freshness and quality of its sushi and sashimi. It's best to come during midday, when the neighborhood is packed with…$$Liberdade - Brazilian
Tordesilhas
Chef Mara Salles takes guests on a delicious tour around the country in Tordesilhas, her charming restaurant in a small house decorated with warm colors, exposed white beams, and hardwood floors, making you feel as if you are stepping into a cozy living room. An avid researcher,…$$$Cerqueira César
