What was once a little market town in the cool high plateau has jumped its bounds and sprawled for the hills in all directions. São Paulo is now not only the largest city in Brazil, but it's also the largest in Latin America and the third or fourth largest in the world. What assembles and drives this vast assemblage of people is commerce. The city and surrounding municipalities account for an incredible 65% of Brazil's GDP. When Paulistas do take a break from work they devote much the same energy to leisure. The city boasts some of the best galleries and museums in the country. It has by far the best cuisine and some of the best nightlife. And despite the seeming chaos, remain for a few days, and you'll discover, as Paulistas have, that the city could not be otherwise; somehow São Paulo makes sense.
The São Paulo Bienal--Most everyone's heard of the Venice Biennale, so it's surprising how many haven't heard of the Bienal in São Paulo. Every 2 years a huge exhibition hall on the edge of Ibirapuera Park is transformed into the largest visual arts exhibition in Latin America. Most countries sponsor work by one or more of their best artists; curators choose selected others. The event takes place from September and December of even-numbered years. For information contact the Fundação Bienal de São Paulo (tel. 011/5574-5922; http://bienalsaopaulo.globo.com).
