Restaurants

Singapore claims an estimated 2,000-plus eating establishments, so you'll never go hungry. But to simply say, "If you like food you'll love Singapore!" doesn't do justice to the modern concept of eating in this city. Here you'll find a huge selection of local, regional, and international cuisine, served in settings that range from bustling hawker centers to grand and glamorous palaces of gastronomy. The food is authentic and many times the dining experience is entertainment in its own right. Various ethnic restaurants, with their traditional decor and serving styles, hold their own special sense of theater for foreigners; but Singaporeans don't stop there, dreaming up new concepts in cuisine and ambience to add fresh dimensions to the fine art of dining.

I'll begin by providing an overview of the main types of traditional cuisine to help you decide, and also list those signature dishes that each style has contributed to the "local cuisine," dishes that have crossed cultures to become time-honored favorites -- the Singaporean equivalent to bangers and mash or burgers and fries. These suggestions are especially helpful when navigating the endless choices at hawker centers (large groupings of informal open-air food stalls).

The restaurants reviewed here offer a crosscut of cuisine and price ranges and were selected for superb quality or authenticity of dishes. Some were selected for the sheer experience, whether it's a stunning view or just plain old fun. Beyond this list, you're sure to discover favorites of your own without having to look too far.

A good place to start is right in your hotel. Many of Singapore's best restaurants are in its hotels, whether they're run by the hotel itself or operated by outfits just renting the space. Hotels generally offer a wide variety of cuisine, and coffee shops almost always have Western selections. Shopping malls have everything from food courts with local fast food to mid-priced and upmarket establishments. Western fast-food outlets are always easy to find -- McDonald's burgers or Starbucks coffee -- but if you want something a little more local, you'll find coffee shops (called kopitiam) and small home-cookin' mom-and-pop joints down every back street. Then there are hawker centers and food courts, where, under one roof, the meal choices go on and on.

Restaurants a Little Farther Out -- Many travelers will choose to eat in town for convenience, and although there's plenty of great dining in the more central areas, there are some other really fantastic dining finds if you're willing to hop in a cab for 10 or 15 minutes. These places are worth the trip -- for a chance to dine along the water at UDMC or go for superior seafood at Long Beach Seafood Restaurant. And don't worry about finding your way back: Most places always have cabs milling about. If not, restaurant staff will always help you call a taxi.

Eating Enclaves

If you're looking for someplace to dine but want to browse around a bit, a few neighborhoods around Singapore host clusters of smaller, and many times quite excellent, restaurants and lounges creating mini-scenes here and there. For example, CHIJMES, a charming colonial orphanage located within the Historic District, provides a home for some excellent restaurants ranging from Cantonese to Mediterranean. I've reviewed Lei Garden, but if you stroll about, you might be tempted by one of the other eateries here.

Boat Quay and Clarke Quay, located along the Singapore River, provide boatloads of options. I've reviewed Our Village at Boat Quay, but this is just one of many.

If you want to get away from the tourist traffic, try Club Street in Chinatown, a short hilly lane lined with restored shophouses that became a chic after-work place for the nearby ad agencies, graphic designers, and law firms that make their offices in this neighborhood. Stroll past the many quaint bistros that serve everything from Italian to Vietnamese and you're sure to find something.

Holland Village, located outside the city to the northwest, is the center of Singapore's expatriate community, so you'll find restaurants, bars, and cafes that cater to Western residents living around this neighborhood. Start at the row of restaurants along Chip Bee Gardens, and if you still haven't found something (I'd be surprised) then cross Holland Road to Lorong Liput and Lorong Mambong. In the listings I've reviewed Original Sin, which is an excellent place to start in this neighborhood.