Frommer's Review
When the Malay Heritage Centre opened its doors in 2004, it became the first museum dedicated to the history, culture, and arts of this often-marginalized ethnic group. The Centre has lovingly displayed exhibits that offer a glimpse into Singapore's early Malay settlements, the sultan's royal family, Malay arts, and 20th-century Malay life.
There's a bit of irony here. The museum is housed in the Istana Kampong Gelam, the former royal palace that housed the descendants of the original sultan that oversaw Singapore. In 1819, Sultan Hussein signed away his rights over the island in exchange for the land at Kampong Gelam plus an annual stipend for his family. After the Sultan's death, the family fortunes began to dwindle and disputes broke out among his descendants. In the late 1890s, they went to court, where it was decided that because no one in the family had the rights as the successor to the sultanate, the land should be reverted to the state. The family was allowed to remain in the house, but because they didn't own the property they lost the authority to improve the buildings. Over the years the compound fell into a very sad state of dilapidation. Eventually, Sultan Hussein's family was given the boot by the government to make way for this museum heralding the value of the Malay, and the Sultan's, cultural contribution to Singapore. Hmm.
Every Wednesday at 3:30pm and Sunday at 11:30am there's a cultural show with live music, costumes, and dancing.
The house to the left before the main gate of the Istana compound is called Gedong Kuning, or Yellow Mansion. It was the home of Tenkgu Mahmoud, the heir to Kampong Gelam. When he died, it was purchased by local Javanese businessman Haji Yusof, the belt merchant. Today it houses a Malay restaurant, Tepak Sireh (tel. 65/6393-4373; daily 11:30am-2:30pm and 6:30-9:30pm).
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