What's New

Spain, along with France and the United States, stands in the forefront of world tourism in terms of numbers of visitors. As such, Spain is constantly on the scene with late-breaking developments. After the long, bleak years of the Franco dictatorship, it has moved definitively into the 21st century. In hotels, restaurants, modern art, whatever--even same-sex marriages--once-sleepy Spain is now on the cutting edge, especially in Barcelona and Madrid.

Barcelona

In 2006 and early 2007, the restaurant scene really heated up here. In Barcelona's L'Eixample, the chef-owner Albert Ventura created Coure, Pasaje Marimón 20 (tel. 93-200-75-32), offering one of the city's most sumptuous tasting menus. His take on a Catalán and international cuisine has earned him heaps of praise from the Spanish gourmet press, and he deserves these accolades. Expect harmonious flavors and unusual combinations of ingredients.

A small restaurant, Gresca, has opened at Carrer Provenza 230 (tel. 93-451-61-93). Owner Josep Olive's restaurant serves one of the town's most rewarding Mediterranean cuisines, where much use is made of olive oil. He's in complete charge of the kitchen and insists on control of his market-fresh ingredients, which are his own creations but nothing so daring as to horrify your palate.

In the Paral.lel district, Tapioles 53, Carrer Tapioles 53 (tel. 93-329-22-38), is one of the great dining secrets of Barcelona for those seeking Mediterranean-Asian fusion cuisine. Sarah Stothart, the owner, was the former personal chef for the media tycoon Rupert Murdock. At her place, which has no sign in front, there are only six tables, so reserve well in advance. We predict you'll be glad you did.

Bilbao

As an increasing number of art lovers flock to this Basque capital to visit the Guggenheim Museum, elegant boutique hotels are opening to accommodate them. One of the most inviting is the Miró Hotel, Alameda Mazarredo 77 (tel. 94-661-18-80), owned by Antonio Miró, called the Calvin Klein of Spain. Just steps from the Guggenheim, the 50-room hotel is minimalist but elegant, with black marble bathrooms and a dramatic use of light to create a mood-altering environment.

Some of those same art lovers who don't mind a bit of a commute are flocking to spend the night at the new Marqués de Riscal hotel, Calle Torrea 1 (tel. 94-518-08-80), in the village of Elciego, some 129km (80 miles) south of Bilbao. This 43-room "new style" hotel is the creation of architect Frank Gehry, who designed Bilbao's Guggenheim. It is the most dramatic hotel in the north of Spain, and has some of the same architectural characteristics as the Guggenheim itself -- its roof, for example, is constructed from curved plates of titanium suspended at different angles and tinted silver, gold, and even rose.

Costa Brava

A Relais & Châteaux, Mas de Torrent, Afueras de Torrent (tel. 97-230-32-92), is one of the grand addresses of northeast Spain, lying an hour's drive north of Barcelona. In 2006 this restored farmhouse from 1751 got even better. Its suites have been restored with private terraces and an individual swimming pool heated with solar panels. In 2007 the deluxe inn opened one of the finest spas and health centers around the Costa Brava. The staff, with some degree of accuracy, boasts some of the finest massages in the world, borrowing techniques "stolen" from such faraway places as Tibet.

Madrid

Spanish tourist authorities are now offering a new Madrid Card that grants discounts on dozens of museums, public transport, and even certain restaurants. It is sold at local tourist offices. Its major feature: It functions as a pass for 5 to 10 days on the city's network of subways and buses, and even some night clubs participate with offers of free drinks or discounts on their cover charges. Another discount travel pass to check into is Abono Turístico, good for 1, 2, 3, 5, or 7 days. It grants unlimited travel in certain designated zones. You'll have to study both passes to determine which is right for your needs.

AC Palacio del Retiro, Alfonso XII no. 14 (tel. 91-523-74-60), has become, since its opening, one of the finest deluxe boutique hotels in the city. It overlooks Retiro Park and lies a close walk from the Prado. Offering both grand comfort and a personalized charm, it is created from an aristocratic mansion constructed early in the 20th century.

In another development, Hotel de las Letras, Gran Vía 11 (tel. 91-523-79-80), was created by restoring a building from 1917 that stands on the "main street" of Madrid. It's been turned into a contemporary hotel of style, comfort, and grace, with all the latest comforts, including a dramatic rooftop terrace with panoramic views.

Since its debut, Casa de Madrid, Calle Arrieta 2 (tel. 91-559-57-91), has been acclaimed as the most elegant B&B in Madrid. Located on the second floor of an 18th-century aristocratic mansion, it stands across from the Royal Opera House. Rooms are decorated with antiques and Persian rugs and often are themed, taking decorative elements from every country from Greece to India.

Quo Puerta del Sol, Sevilla 4 (tel. 91-532-90-49), was created in part by Tómas Alia, one of the most famous interior decorators of Spain, who transformed this early-20th-century building into a first-class hotel with a sleek, dramatic interior. The traditional facade conceals high-tech amenities, and the hotel has so much character it's viewed as cutting edge.

Among restaurants, El Mirador del Museo, on the rooftop of the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, Paseo Prado 8 (tel. 91-420-39-44), attracted the most favorable press attention in 2006 with its take on a deluxe Continental cuisine. You get not only some of the most panoramic views in Madrid but a finely honed cuisine using market-fresh ingredients in its repertoire of both traditional and imaginative dishes.

The fashionistas of Madrid are descending on La Manduca de Azagra, Sagasta 14 (tel. 91-591-01-12), which has become one of the most sought-after tables in Madrid. The first-class cuisine features traditional Spanish dishes, prepared with imagination, along with specialties of the Navarre region. La Manduca is definitely on the see-and-be-seen circuit, but the food would be worthy even if it weren't so chic to dine here.

Majorca

On this Balearic vacation island, Ca N'Alluny, Carretera de Soller Km 1 (tel. 97-163-61-85), has opened to the public for the first time. This was the home of the famous English poet and author Robert Graves (1895-1985). He lived in the small town of Deià from 1929 until his death and is buried next to the village church. The house is filled with manuscripts, mementos, and even the furniture of this world-class author. Personal and intimate, much of the museum looks as it did when Graves died. Life was rather primitive here -- for example, we learn that his companion, Laura Riding, had no refrigerator, only an icebox in the cellar. Goats milk was collected daily from the village, and a rainwater cistern provided their drinking water.

Marbella

This beach resort is the one chic town on Spain's Costa del Sol. Chef Dani García has opened a hot new restaurant, Calima, in the Gran Meliá Don Pepe, Calle Jose Melía (tel. 95-276-42-52). Almost overnight the press hailed him as the most exciting and innovative chef at the resort, serving a deluxe Andalusian and international cuisine. He experiments successfully with dishes and offers concoctions not seen anywhere else along the coast, using everything from fennel dust to liquid nitrogen injected into olives, turning them into popcornlike morsels of goodness. Elegant dinners are served on a large terrace overlooking the sea.

Salamanca

After a massive, multimillion-dollar restoration, the Parador de Salamanca, Calle Teso de la Feria 2 (tel. 92-319-20-82), has regained its position as the choice address in town, lying across the Tormes River, 1.6km (1 mile) south of the historic core. Closed for a year, it has reopened to a spectacular success. The complex is divided into three buildings, each harmonious with the landscaped grounds. A fitness center was added, the bedrooms were made more elegant, and hydromassage showers were installed in all the bathrooms.

Toledo

The grandest attraction of Toledo -- other than the cathedral -- the Alcázar, Cuesta de Carlos V no. 2 (tel. 92-522-16-73), is slated to open sometime in 2008. The building became world famous during the Spanish Civil War when it underwent a siege for 70 days. Today it's being turned into a museum of the Spanish army, housing intriguing relics of war and an exceptional collection of armor from the Middle Ages.

Valencia

This Levante city's Metro system is up and running, covering the Old Town (site of many of the attractions) rather efficiently but also extending into some of the outskirts of Valencia. Tickets can now be purchased from automatic machines at any station, including a bargain deal called Bonometro, good for 10 trips in the zones indicated.

Immediately adjacent to Valencia's convention center, Hilton Valencia, Av. Cortes Valencianas 52 (tel. 96-303-00-00), has opened. It's 1.8 miles (3km) from the historic Old Town. Rising 29 floors, it is a glass-and-dark-metal tower in the tallest building in Valencia. Although aimed primarily at business clients, it is perfectly suitable for tourists with rental cars, especially those who want to avoid the congestion in the center of town. Many guests park their cars at the Hilton, then use the Metro for commutes into the heart of Valencia.

Competing with the new Hilton, The Westin Valencia, Amadeo de Saboya 16 (tel. 96-362-59-00), has opened in a structure radically transformed from the 1917 textile mill from which it was created. Upon its opening, it became the first smoke-free Westin in Europe. Unlike the Hilton, the Westin lies within the historic center, a 20-minute walk from the port.

Zafra

In the western province of Extremadura, this walled town of old Moorish streets and squares now has accommodations to rival those of a government-owned parador. Casa Palacio Conde de la Corte, Plaza del Pilar, Redondo 2 (tel. 92-456-33-11), was created out of a town mansion and former private residence of a locally famous bull breeder. It's a grand address, imbued with a personalized decor and lots of style, with rooms ranging from midsize to spacious. On-site is an outdoor pool, which is great because the summers get fiery hot here.