Osteria del Matto

Though it only opened in 2000, this is truly an old-school osteria serving simple, solid food and good wines. There's no menu to choose from, just a blackboard telling you what you're going to eat, and waiters telling you when you're going to eat it. It's a sort of gastromasochism that is currently in style, but perhaps is not for everyone. Various salumi hang in the little kitchen area alongside a prosciutto slung in its holder, ready to be carved by hand by the gregarious Filippo Matto (a former butler to Gian Carlo Menotti at his Scottish estate) for your antipasto -- a mix of meats, onion frittata wedges, artichokes, and crostini. Afterward, there's just a single pasta dish (if you're lucky, the farro stew made with sausage, wine, peperoncini, and soup veggies).

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