Osteria del Matto

Frommer's Review

Though it only opened in December 2000, this is truly an old-school osteria serving simple, solid food and good wines. The stocky, shared wood tables cluster under tall, rough beam ceilings, crude 14th-century brick arches, and goldenrod plaster walls scattered with wine bottle-laden shelves. There's no menu to choose from, just a blackboard telling you what you're going to eat. Various salami hang in the little kitchen area alongside a prosciutto slung in its holder, ready to be carved by hand by the gregarious Filippo Matto (a former butler to Gian Carlo Menotti at his Scottish estate) for your antipasto -- a mix of meats, onion frittata wedges, artichokes, and crostini. Afterward, there's just a single pasta dish (if you're lucky, the farro stew made with sausage, wine, peperoncini, and soup veggies) followed by the dolce of the day -- I got a berry marmalade crostata.

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