Europe / Italy / Tuscany and Umbria / Southern Umbria / Spoleto / Best Restaurants

La Barcaccia

Despite the name (the “Old Boat”), these brightly lit rooms are set on dry land near the top of the town—and, except for some Adriatic fish choices, the menu is firmly landlocked in Umbrian classics. This is the place to strangle the priest, that is, enjoy the strangozzi alla spoletina (with peppery tomato sauce), named for rebellious clergy who broke with the papacy in the 14th century. A good choice of vegetarian dishes includes scamorza, a cow’s milk cheese similar to mozzarella, baked with radicchio.