Attractions

St-Raphaël is divided in half by railroad tracks. The historical Vieille Ville (old city) lies inland from the tracks. Here you'll find St-Raphaël's only intact ancient structure, the Eglise des Templiers, place de la Vieille Eglise, Quartier des Templiers (tel. 04-94-19-25-75). The 12th-century church is the third to stand on this site; two Carolingian churches underneath the current structure have been revealed during digs. A Templar watchtower sits atop one of the chapels, and at one time, watchers were posted to look out over the sea for ships that might pose a threat. The church served as a fortress and refuge in case of pirate attack. In the courtyard are fragments of a Roman aqueduct that once brought water from Fréjus. You can visit the church June to September every Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm. Ironically, no Masses are conducted in this church on Sunday -- it's a consecrated church, but one that's been relegated to something akin to an archaeological rather than religious monument.

St-Raphaël's other major church, Notre-Dame-de-la-Victoire, boulevard Félix-Martin (tel. 04-94-19-81-29), was completed in 1887, an ostentatious monument to the gilded age of commerce that helped finance its construction. May to September, it's open daily from 7:30am to 10pm; October to April, it's open daily from 7am to 8pm. Entrance is free.

Near the Eglise des Templiers, the Musée d'Archéologie Sous-Marine (Museum of Underwater Archaeology), rue des Templiers (tel. 04-94-19-25-75), displays amphorae, ships' anchors, ancient diving equipment, and other interesting items recovered from the ocean's depths. At one time, rumors circulated about a "lost city" off the coast of St-Raphaël. Jacques Cousteau came to investigate; instead of a sunken city, he discovered a Roman ship that had sunk while carrying a full load of building supplies. October to May, the museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 9am to noon and 2 to 5:30pm. June to September, it's open Tuesday to Saturday 9am to noon and 2 to 6:30pm. Admission is free.

You'll also find flower and fruit markets in the old city. Stall owners open every morning. Every Tuesday from 9am to 6pm, vendors sell a variety of odds and ends. Also check out the Marché Alimentaire de St-Raphaël, where carloads of produce, fish, meat, wines, and cheeses are sold Tuesday to Sunday from 8am to 1pm at two sites -- place Victor-Hugo and place de la République -- a 5-minute walk apart.

The seafront's broad promenades, dotted with statues dedicated to Félix Martin (a 19th-c. mayor and tireless promoter of the resort) and Alphonse Karr (a 19th-c. artist and local luminary), wind between the beaches and hotels. Near the old port, a pyramid commemorating Napoleon's return to France from Egypt stands on avenue du Commandant-Guilbaud.