Side Trips

Staunton-to-Lexington via Raphine

The rural area around the tiny hamlet of Raphine, about halfway between Staunton and Lexington, is quintessential Shenandoah Valley, with country roads winding among farms blanketing steep hills. This gorgeous area makes an easy excursion from either of the two towns or as a stop when traveling between them. The quick way is via I-81, but Va. 252 is much more scenic. However you get here, follow Raphine Road (C.R. 606) between the Interstate and Va. 252.

Starting at Exit 205 off I-81, take Va. 56 east toward Steele's Tavern and follow the signs to the picturesque Cyrus McCormick Farm (tel. 540/377-2255; www.vaes.vt.edu/steeles/mccormick/mccormick.html). Now part of a Virginia Tech agricultural research facility, it's in a lovely rural setting with a small blacksmith shop, a gristmill, and other log cabins, where exhibits include a model of Cyrus McCormick's 1831 invention, the first reaper, which revolutionized American agriculture and made him a fortune. This is an excellent place to spread out a picnic and take a half-mile walk along Mad Creek to the mill pond. It's open daily from 8:30am to 5pm; admission is free.

Now backtrack west on Va. 56, go under I-81, and follow C.R. 606 for 1 mile through Raphine to the award-winning Rockbridge Vineyard (tel. 888/511-9463 or 540/377-6204; www.rockbridgevineyard.com). The tasting room is open Sunday and Monday from noon to 5pm, Tuesday through Saturday 10am to 6pm.

Four miles west of I-81 is the 1882-vintage Wade's Mill (tel. 540/348-1400; www.wadesmill.com), which grinds whole grains into flour, cornmeal, polenta, semolina, and an herb beer mix for pancakes (the mill supplies the area's top restaurants). The shop sells high-quality kitchen gear, and occasional cooking events feature guest chefs. The mill is open from April to the Sunday before Christmas Wednesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm, and on Sunday from 1 to 5pm during summer.

Next to the mill stands Buffalo Springs Herb Farm (tel. 540/348-1083; www.buffaloherbs.com), where those of you with green thumbs will enjoy exploring the herb gardens and browsing the retail shop in a huge barn, which purveys gardening equipment and supplies. The farm is open Wednesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm year-round, and Sunday 1 to 5pm during April, May, and September to December.

Most of this area is in northern Rockbridge County, so contact the Lexington & Rockbridge Area Visitor Center for more information.

Staunton-to-Warm Springs via Monterey

Another scenic alternative to I-81 from Staunton to Lexington is via U.S. 250 West across the mountains into Highland County, whose rugged beauty has given it the nickname "Virginia's Switzerland." In fact, U.S. 250 from Staunton to the town of Monterey is one of the state's most scenic excursions. Carved out of the rocks in the early 1800s as the Staunton-Parkersburg (W.Va.) Turnpike, the two-lane highway climbs (and I do mean climbs) over four mountains on its way to Monterey. Don't be in a hurry: the 50-mile drive will take 1 1/2 hours.

On the way you'll pass through the village of McDowell, site of a Civil War battle, which is explained in the Highland Museum and Heritage Center (tel. 540/396-4478). The museum is behind the local funeral home on U.S. 250 and is open Wednesday to Saturday 11am to 4pm, Sunday 1 to 4pm. Admission is free. Next door, members of the local Mennonite community sell homemade maple syrup and candy in the Sugar Tree Country Store & Sugar House (tel. 540/396-3469), which still has its pot-belly stove.

Seen from U.S. 250 as it descends into the valley, Monterey's white clapboard churches and Victorian homes conjure up images of New England hamlets. At more than 2,500 feet elevation, it enjoys a refreshing, springlike climate during summer. Information is available in the Highland Inn on Main Street . Pick up a walking-tour brochure and stroll along picturesque Main Street (U.S. 250) past the likes of H&H Cash Store, a holdover from the days when general stores sold a little bit of everything. You can also poke your head into good arts-and-crafts stores, including a 1797 Log Cabin, which now serves at the local SPCA thrift shop (tel. 540/468-3504).

The best (and most crowded) time to be here is on the second and third full weekends in March, when Monterey hosts the Highland Maple Festival, one of Virginia's top annual events. A smaller version, the Hands and Harvest Festival, is held on the second weekend in October.

Accommodations are available at the charming Highland Inn, on Main Street (tel. 888/466-4682 or 540/468-2143; fax 540/468-3143; www.highland-inn.com), a 16-unit, veranda-fronted hotel built in 1904, renovated and improved in the 1990s. You can have dinner here Tuesday through Sunday, or brunch on Sunday. High's Restaurant on Main Street (tel. 540/468-1600) serves inexpensive, down-home Southern fare Monday to Saturday from 6am to 8pm, Sunday from 7am to 6pm.

For more information contact the Highland County Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 223, Monterey, VA 24465 (tel. 540/468-2550; fax 540/468-2551; www.highlandcounty.org). It's open Monday through Friday from 10am to 5pm.

From Monterey, U.S. 220 takes you 30 miles south through the scenic Jackson River Valley to Warm Springs . From there, you can drive 42 miles across the mountains to Lexington via Va. 39 and the Goshen Pass, a marvelously scenic drive in itself.