Active Pursuits

Beaches

St. Barts has 14 white-sand beaches. Few are ever crowded, even in winter; all are public and free. Topless sunbathing is quite common. The best known is St-Jean Beach, which is actually two beaches divided by the Eden Rock promontory. It offers watersports, restaurants, and a few hotels, as well as some shady areas. Flamands Beach, to the west, is a very wide, long beach with a few small hotels and some areas shaded by lantana palms. In winter, the surf here can be a bit rough, although it is rarely hazardous. L'Orient Beach, on the north shore, is quiet and calm, with shady areas. It's popular with surfers and swimmers who like rolling waves. Marigot Beach, also on the north shore, is narrow but offers good swimming and snorkeling.

For a beach with hotels, restaurants, and watersports, Grand Cul-de-Sac Beach, on the northeast shore, fits the bill. It's narrow and protected by a reef.

North of the commercial port at Gustavia, the rather unromantic-sounding Public Beach is a combination of sand and pebbles. This beach is more popular with boaters than swimmers -- it's also the location of the St. Barts Sailing School. There is no more beautiful place on the island, however, to watch the boats at sunset. Located near a small fishing village, Corossol Beach offers a typical glimpse of French life, St. Barts style. This is a calm, protected beach, with a charming little seashell museum.

South of Gustavia, Shell Beach or Grand Galet is awash with seashells. Rocky outcroppings protect this beach from strong waves. It's also the scene of many a weekend party.

Gouverneurs Beach, on the southern coast, can be reached by driving south from Gustavia to Lurin. Turn at the Santa Fe restaurant and head down a narrow road. The beach is gorgeous and uncrowded, but there's no shade. Grande Saline Beach, to the east of Gouverneurs Beach, is reached by driving up the road from the commercial center in St-Jean; a short walk over the sand dune and you're here. Like Gouverneurs Beach, Grande Saline Beach offers some waves but no shade. This beach is full of beautiful sunbathers, all nude.

Colombier Beach is difficult to get to but well worth the effort. It can only be reached by boat or by taking a rugged goat path from Petite Anse past Flamands Beach, a 30-minute walk. Shade and snorkeling are found here, and you can pack a lunch and spend the day. Locals call it Rockefeller's Beach because for many years David Rockefeller owned the property surrounding it.

Fishing

Anglers are fond of the waters around St. Barts. From March to July, they catch mahimahi; in September, wahoo. Atlantic bonito, barracuda, and marlin also turn up frequently. Marine Service, quai du Yacht-Club, Gustavia (tel. 590/27-70-34), rents a 9m (30-ft.) Phoenix specifically outfitted for big-game fishing. A full day for four costs 1,200€ ($1,560), which includes a captain and first mate. The outfitter also offers shore fishing on a 29-ft. day cruiser, which tends to remain close to the island's shoreline, searching for tuna, barracuda, and other fish. A full-day excursion, with fishing for up to four, costs 800€ ($1,040).

Scuba Diving

Marine Service, quai du Yacht-Club, in Gustavia (tel. 590/27-70-34), is the most complete watersports facility on the island. It operates from a one-story building set directly on the water at the edge of a marina, on the opposite side of the harbor from the more congested part of Gustavia. Tailoring its dives for both beginners and advanced divers, the outfit is familiar with at least 20 unusual sites scattered at various points offshore. The most interesting of these include the Grouper, a remote reef west of St. Barts, close to the rich reef life surrounding the uninhabited cay known as Ile Forchue. The island has only one relatively safe wreck dive, the rusting hulk of Kayali, a trawler that sank offshore in 1994. Set in deep waters, it's recommended only for experienced divers. A resort course, including four open-water dives, costs 300€ ($390). A "scuba review," for certified divers who are out of practice, also goes for 75€ ($98), while a one-tank dive for certified divers begins at 60€ ($78). Multidive packages are available.

Snorkeling

You can test your luck at hundreds of points offshore, simply by donning a mask, fins, and a snorkel. Marine Services, quai du Yacht-Club, Gustavia (tel. 590/27-70-34), runs daily snorkeling expeditions. An 7-hour excursion (9am to 4pm), including a full French-style picnic, open bar, all equipment, and exploration of two separate snorkeling sites, costs 110€ ($143). They can also rent snorkeling gear and tell you where to go on your own.