Attractions

Ready to Ramble? -- The St. Croix Landmarks Society on Sundays between November and May occasionally offers "rambles" into the countryside to see ruins, many of them plantations that flourished in the 18th century. The owners of what remains of these former sugar plantations open their gates to the tours, so you have a chance to see a bit of the hidden St. Croix that the average visitor misses.

Guides are often St. Croix historians who will fill you in on the land and its lore. Count yourself lucky if you get to visit Castle Nugent Farm, a cattle ranch on the southeastern coast and one of the oldest working ranches in the West Indies. You can still visit the slave quarters at this ranch and the Great House dating from 1730. For information about these tours and other programs of the Society, call tel. 340/772-0598 or log on to www.stcroixlandmarks.com.

The St. Croix Heritage Trail -- A trail that leads into the past, St. Croix Heritage Trail helps visitors relive the island's Danish colonial past. All you need are a brochure and map, available at the tourist office in Christiansted. This 72-mile itinerary includes a combination of asphalt-covered roadway, suitable for driving, and narrow woodland trails which must be navigated on foot. Many aficionados opt to drive along the route whenever practical, descending onto the footpaths wherever indicated, then returning to their cars for the continuation of the tour. En route, you'll be exposed to one of the Caribbean's densest concentrations of historical and cultural sites.

The route connects Christiansted and Frederiksted, going past the sites of former sugar plantations, and traverses the entire 28-mile length of St. Croix. The route consists mainly of existing roadways. The brochure will identify everything you're seeing: You will pass cattle farms, suburban communities, even industrial complexes and resorts. It's not all manicured and pretty, but much is scenic and worth the drive. Allow at least a day for this trail, with stops along the way.

Nearly everyone gets out of the car at Point Udall, the easternmost point under the U.S. flag in the Caribbean. You'll pass an eclectic mix of churches and even a prison.

The highlight of the trail is the Estate Mount Washington, a strikingly well-preserved sugar plantation. Another highlight is Estate Whim Plantation, one of the best of the restored great houses with a museum and gift shop. Another stop is along Salt River Bay, which cuts into the northern shoreline. This is the site of Columbus's landfall in 1493.

Of course, you'll want to stop and get to know the locals. We recommend a refreshment break at Smithens Market. Lying off Queen Mary Highway, vendors here offer freshly squeezed sugar-cane juice and sell locally grown fruits and homemade chutneys.

Sandy Point Wildlife Refuge

St. Croix's rarely visited southwestern tip is composed of salt marshes, tidal pools, and low vegetation inhabited by birds, turtles, and other wildlife. More than 3 miles of ecologically protected coastline lie between Sandy Point (the island's westernmost tip) and the shallow waters of the West End Salt Pond. The area is home to colonies of green, leatherback, and hawksbill turtles. It's one of only two such places in U.S. waters. It's also home to thousands of birds, including herons, brown pelicans, Caribbean martins, black-necked stilts, and white-crowned pigeons. As for flora, Sandy Point gave its name to a rare form of orchid, a brown/purple variety.

This wildlife refuge is only open on Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 4pm. To get here, drive to the end of Route 66 (Melvin Evans Hwy.) and continue down a gravel road. For guided weekend visits, call tel. 340/773-4554.

Around the Island

North of Frederiksted, you can drop in at Sprat Hall, the island's oldest plantation, or continue along to the "Rain Forest" . Most visitors come to the area to see the jagged estuary of the northern coastline's Salt River. The Salt River was where Columbus landed on November 14, 1493. Marking the 500th anniversary of Columbus's arrival, former President George H. W. Bush signed a bill creating the 912-acre Salt River Bay National Historical Park and Ecological Preserve. The park contains the site of the original Carib village explored by Columbus and his men, including the only ceremonial ball court ever discovered in the Lesser Antilles. Also within the park is the largest mangrove forest in the Virgin Islands, sheltering many endangered animals and plants, plus an underwater canyon attracting divers from around the world. If you visit on your own, a taxi from Christiansted will cost $22.