Attractions

No one will argue that Stockholm isn't an expensive city. We hold onto our wallets during every visit. But it's wise to keep in mind that studies cite 10 cities that are more expensive, including Kobe, Japan; Oslo; and Geneva. So cheer up -- it isn't as costly as you might have thought, and Stockholm is loaded with sights and activities, many of them bargains. If the Vasa Ship Museum doesn't pique your interest (highly unlikely), perhaps the changing of the guard at the Royal Palace or the Gröna Lunds Tivoli amusement park will. Even window-shopping for beautifully designed Swedish crafts can be an enjoyable way to spend an afternoon. And after dark, Stockholm becomes the liveliest city in the north of Europe.

At Djurgården

The forested and sparsely populated island of Djurgården (Deer Park) lies about 3km (1 3/4 miles) to the east of Gamla Stan (Old Town). Crisscrossed with bicycle paths and permeated with parklands, it's distinctly different from the densely populated urban vibes that characterize such neighborhoods as Gamla Stan, Södermalm, and Norrmalm. Its most extensive and most visible attraction is Skansen.

Frommer's Favorite Stockholm Experiences

Experiencing Skansen. Be it butter churning or folk dancing, there's always something to intrigue people of all ages here. Wander at leisure through the world's oldest open-air museum (which covers about 30 hectares/74 acres of parkland), getting a glimpse of ancient Swedish life.

Strolling through Gamla Stan at Night. To walk the narrow cobblestone alleys of the Old Town on foot at night is like going back in time. During your stroll, it'll take little imagination to envision what everyday life must have been like in this "city between the bridges."

A Smorgasbord at the Grand Hotel. Unless you're lucky enough to attend a wedding or extended family reunion, you'll have to seek out the lavish but high-maintenance gastronomic display known as a smorgasbord -- they happen rarely in Sweden today. One of the few establishments that offer them on a regular, ongoing basis is Stockholm's Grand Hotel.

Searching out Panoramas. The city's terrain is rocky, and sometimes involves vertigo-inducing heights. Getting a bit of distance from the Old Town helps you visualize it more clearly. The Monteliusvägen on the residential island of Södermalm rarely makes it outside the inner sanctum of the consciousness of local residents, but it should. Tracing the cliff tops of northern Södermalm, and wide enough for hill climbers but not for cars, Monteliusvägen features views that sweep out over the heart of imperial Sweden. Additional panoramas sweep out from the also-recommended Fåfångan Café on Södermalm.

A Trip to Riddarholmen. One of our favorite area attractions is the Gamla Stan's satellite island of Riddarholmen, where time seems to have stopped sometime around 1600, and where there's a lot less crowding than on Gamla Stan, just across the channel.

Visiting the Rosendal Botanical Gardens. No other experience in Stockholm will impress upon you the deep-seated sense of responsibility that the Swedes feel for their ecology than a visit to this fervently organic, and utterly enchanting, fortress of the horticultural world. Combine it with a visit to Skansen, preferably during the peak of midsummer, when fruits and vegetables, dormant throughout the brutal winters and benefiting from the extended daylight hours of summer, literally explode into maturity at a dizzyingly rapid pace.

Watching the Summer Dawn. In midsummer at 3am, you can get out of bed, as many Swedes do, and sit on a balcony to watch the eerie blue sky -- pure, crystal, exquisite -- emerge from a swath of peach. Swedes don't like to miss a minute of their summer, even if they have to get up early to enjoy it.

Especially For Kids

The open-air park Skansen, on Djurgården, offers Lill-Skansen, the children's own "Little Skansen." There's a petting zoo with lots of child-friendly animals, including pigs, goats, and horses. Lill-Skansen offers a break from the dizzying (and often tantrum-inducing) excitement frequently generated by a commercial amusement park. A miniature train ride through the park is about as wild as it gets. Lill-Skansen is open daily in summer from 10:30am to 4pm.

Kids can easily spend a day or several at Skansen and not get bored. Before going to Skansen, stop off at the Vasa Museum, which many youngsters find an epic adventure. The evening can be capped by a visit to Gröna Lunds Tivoli, which also is on Djurgården.

Architectural Highlights

In Stockholm, architecture buffs are often captivated by such grand buildings as Drottningholm Palace and Riddarholm Church. But many of Stockholm's expanding suburban "cities" also are worth seeing for their urban planning and architecture, which in Sweden is among the most advanced in the world.

One of these model developments is Farsta, completed in 1960, although much altered since then. It lies 10km (6 1/4 miles) from the heart of Stockholm and can be reached by the Farsta train departing from the Central Station, or by taking bus no. 18 to the end of the line. With its traffic-free shopping mall, bright and airy modern apartment houses, and contemporary stores and restaurants, it makes for a pleasant afternoon tour.