Lisa Elmquist

It may not boast refined cuisine, but this is an authentic taste of Sweden done exceedingly well. It's our favorite spot for eating amid the food stalls of Stockholm's produce market (Östermalms Saluhall). Resembling a bistro under the tent at a country fair, the likable cafe and oyster bar bears the name of one of Sweden's leading culinary matriarchs. Because of its good, affordable food, and its take-charge, no-nonsense format, it's an appropriate choice for families. Owned by one of the city's largest fish distributors, its menu varies with the catch. Some patrons come here for shrimp with bread and butter for 112SEK to 165SEK ($22-$34/£11-£17). A smoked salmon tartar is served with red onion and sour cream, or else you can order it marinated with a sweet mustard sauce. Fresh boiled lobster also appears on the menu, but at lethal prices. In such a fishy atmosphere, you don't expect tempting desserts, but get them anyway, including a tantalizing butterscotch tart and an even better chocolate tart made with white and dark truffles and served with fresh raspberries.

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