Ulriksdals Wärdshus

This out-of-town establishment loaded with atmosphere serves one of the best smorgasbords in Sweden, and almost rivals the lavish spread at the Grand Hotel. On the grounds of Ulriksdals Royal Palace on Edviken Bay, you can dine in the all-glass Queen Silvia Pavilion, which opens onto gardens owned by the king and queen. The smorgasbord, featuring 86 delicacies (both shellfish and meat), is accompanied by beer or aquavit. Most people eat in five courses, beginning with herring that comes in 20 varieties. They follow with salmon and then meat dishes, including frikadeller (meatballs) or perhaps reindeer, then a choice of cheese, and finally dessert. Some dishes are based on old farm-style recipes, including "Lansson's Temptation," which blends anchovies, heavy-cream potatoes, and onions. Over the Christmas season, the almost-doubled buffet is lavishly decorated in a seasonal theme and costs 600SEK ($120/£60) per person.

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