Frommer's Review
Set within the high-ceilinged interior of the Royal Academy of Arts, this is one of Stockholm's premier restaurants. The decor is ultrasophisticated and hip, even nightclubish with its apple-green and lime-colored walls; long, shimmering curtains; and the kind of uncluttered minimalism you'd expect at a fashionable venue in Milan. Since it's near the Swedish parliament and various government ministries, it tends to attract government officials at lunch, but a classier and far trendier clientele in the evening -- the kind of crowd where you'd expect to see a visiting rock star, an entertainment-industry icon, or even (as happened during 2006) the Prince of Jordan. One local food critic described the food as "confident, generous, and brilliantly handled," and we concur. The menu divides your choices into either "innovative" or "traditional" cuisine. The best traditional choices might include beef carpaccio with Parmesan; seafood bouillabaisse with saffron; codfish bacalao with white onions; and a navarin of suckling lamb with chanterelles. "Innovative" choices feature tuna tataki with mango slices and cream; caviar served with cauliflower and white chocolate (you heard right); or veal with tuna sauce, grapefruit, and licorice (you heard right again).
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