As the sun starts to go down, and the glow of the volcano lights up the evening sky, thoughts turn to the aperitivo. A popular spot is Ritrovo Ingrid, Piazza San Vincenzo (tel. 090/986385), which offers great views from its terrace and is named after you-know-who. Open evenings only, until 3am, it is closed one week on a Sunday, the next on a Monday. If Ingrid's having her day off, try Il Malandrino, Via Marina (tel. 090/986376), also open 6 days a week -- it alternates days off with Ritrovo Ingrid. Live music is often found at La Tartana, Via Marina 33, Ficogrande (tel. 090/986025); open from June to September daily from 9pm to 2am, it is on the beach opposite La Sirenetta hotel.
