Things To Do in Stromboli

By law, the cone of the volcano, Gran Cratere, can be visited only with a guide. Guide Alpine Autorizzate (tel. 090-986211) charges 20€ per person and leads groups on the 3-hour one-way trip up the mountain, leaving at 5pm and returning at 11pm. (I don't recommend taking the trip during the day -- it's far less dramatic then.) The trip down takes only 2 hours, but you're allowed an hour at the rim. About halfway up is a view of the Sciara del Fuoco, which at night glows a fiery red.

Climbing the volcano is the big deal here; otherwise, there isn't much to see in town. Film buffs can follow Via Vittorio Emanuele to the Chiesa di San Vincenzo, a church so unremarkable it barely merits a visit. However, just two doors down on the right, near the Locanda del Barbablu, is the little pink house where Ingrid Bergman and Roberto Rossellini "lived in sin" during the filming of the 1950 flick Stromboli. The house can be viewed only from the outside.

On the northeast coast is a striking rock, Strombolicchio, a steep basalt block measuring 43m (141 ft.). It is reached by climbing steps hewn out of rock. Once at the top, you'll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the Aeolians, and on a clear day you can see as far as Calabria on the Italian mainland.

As the sun sets and the volcano lights up the sky, it seems that everyone heads for Bar Ingrid, Via Michele Bianchi 1 (tel. 090-986385). Naturally, it's named for Ingrid Bergman. Drinks, beer, and sandwiches are the casual offerings, but mainly people come here to see and be seen. It's open 6 days a week from 6pm to 2am. It closes Monday one week, Sunday the next.

Also popular is Il Malandrino, Via Marina (tel. 090-986376), where you can hang out, drink, and even order a pizza. It's open 6 days a week from 5:30pm to 3am. It closes Monday one week, Sunday the next, a rotation it jointly maintains with Bar Ingrid.

For live music, head to La Tartana, Via Marina 33, Ficogrande (tel. 090-986025), opening onto the beach. It's open June through September, daily from 9pm to 2am. Patrons come here to dance to disco or enjoy live pop. La Tartana is part of La Sirenetta Park Hotel, right near the port.