Getting Around

By Plane

If you can afford it, getting around Tanzania by plane is the quickest and most comfortable option. There are a few domestic airlines to choose from that link the most popular safari destinations and provide services to the coast. Some of the more upmarket safari lodges have their own airstrips and use small-seater planes operated by private air charter companies to ferry their guests in, which is a good alternative to long drives on dusty roads.

Air Tanzania (www.airtanzania.com): The national airline provides regular service between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, Kilimanjaro Airport, midway between Moshi and Arusha, and Mwanza on Lake Victoria. However, timetables frequently change and there can be long delays, so in most cases the private airlines offer better service.

Precision Air (www.precisionairtz.com): Precision links the major cities and towns and flies to Dar es Salaam, Bukoba and Mwanza on Lake Victoria, Kigoma on Lake Tanganyika, Arusha, Kilimanjaro, and Zanzibar. Precision also flies to Nairobi in Kenya and Entebbe in Uganda.

Coastal Air (www.coastal.cc): Coastal Air uses small-seater planes and links the upmarket lodges in the game parks and reserves. They fly to Dar es Salaam, Mwanza, Arusha, Selous, Ruaha, and to several private airstrips in the Serengeti. They also operate services to and from Zanzibar, Pemba, and Mafia islands.

Zan Air (www.zanair.com): Zan Air links Arusha and Dar es Salaam with the parks and touches down in the Manyara, Serengeti, Selous, and Lake Manyara, and also offers service to Zanzibar and Pemba.

By Train

There are two railways that cross Tanzania. Both have two-berth first-class compartments, six-berth second-class compartments, and sitting third and fourth classes, and offer three to four services per week. Clean bedding is provided and there are dining cars. However, the rolling stock is very old and the trains get very crowded with not only people but sacks of vegetables and livestock as passengers buy items from the villages along the way. Nevertheless, adventurous travelers might enjoy the experience.

Tazara (Tanzania-Zambia Railway Authority; tel. 022/262-191): This line runs from Dar es Salaam through the south of the country and on to Kapiri Mposhi in Zambia. The average journey time from Dar es Salaam to Mbeya in southwest Tanzania is 23 hours.

Tanzania Railway Corporation's Central Line (www.trctz.com): The Central Line runs from Dar es Salaam across the middle of the country to Tabora, where it splits into two branch lines that end in Kigoma on Lake Tanganyika and Mwanza on Lake Victoria. It takes 36 hours to get from Dar es Salaam to Kigoma.

By Bus & Matatu

If you're on a budget, buses are the best and cheapest way to travel. Large buses and smaller minibuses known in Tanzania as matatus criss-cross the country and link up the major towns, and longer routes link Dar es Salaam with Nairobi and Mombasa in neighboring Kenya. Some of the vehicles are quite old, can be driven rather recklessly, and can be overcrowded with too many passengers squashed into seats and standing in the aisle. The most reasonably efficient and comfortable buses recommended to travelers are operated by Scandinavian Express (www.scandinaviagroup.com). They have modern ticket offices in each town and city; you can choose your seat online, buses are speed governed and most have air-conditioning, and complimentary drinks and biscuits are offered onboard. Always exercise caution around the bus stations as petty theft can be a problem.

By Car

Driving in Tanzania can be dangerous because everyone does pretty much as they please; traffic in Dar es Salaam is especially chaotic. The roads are not always well maintained and frequent potholes are a problem, so keep your speed down and avoid driving at night because of the danger of domestic, and in some areas, wild animals on the road. Many of the roads in rural areas and in the parks and reserves are not paved, so a four-wheel-drive vehicle is essential, particularly in the wet seasons when these roads often become impassable. If you're confident that you can hold your own on Tanzanian roads, you can either reserve a car in your country of origin from one of the large international agencies, or contact them once you're on the ground. Agencies with several offices in Dar es Salaam and Arusha include Avis (www.avis.com), Budget (www.budget.com), and Hertz (www.hertz.com). A popular way for independent travelers to reach the north or west coasts of Zanzibar from Stone Town is to hire a jeep or motorbike from one of the many travel agents in Stone Town.