Beaches -- The coastal area around Kennebunkport is home to several of the state's best beaches. Southward across the river (technically, this is Kennebunk, though it's much closer to Kennebunkport) are Gooch's Beach and Kennebunk Beach. Head eastward on Beach Street (from the intersection of Rtes. 9 and 35) and you'll soon wind into a handsome colony of eclectic shingled summer homes. The narrow road twists past sandy beaches and rocky headlands. It may be congested in summer; avoid gridlock by exploring on foot or by bike.
Goose Rocks Beach is north of Kennebunkport off Route 9 (watch for signs), a good destination if you like your crowds light and prefer actual beaches to beach scenes. An enclave of beach homes is set amid rustling oaks off a fine-sand beach. Offshore, a narrow barrier reef often attracts flocks of geese.
Parsons Beach -- It's certainly the most attractive approach to a beach in Maine, and the beach itself is lovely and often much less populated than others in the area. Find the beach by heading south on Route 9 from the Kennebunks; after you cross a marsh and the Mousam River, take your first left on Parson's Beach Road.
You'll drive down a country lane lined with maples, and at the end there's limited parking for the beach, though you can also park on the north side of the road if that's full. It may not be the best beach for swimming -- it's rocky at the mouth of the river -- but it's without parallel for lounging and reading. Be on your best behavior here (don't trample the dunes, don't take stuff from the tide pool). You cross private land to reach the beach, and signs ominously proclaim that access can be denied if the landowner so chooses.
Beach Parking -- Finding a spot is often difficult, and all beaches require a parking permit, which you can get at the town offices or from your hotel. You can avoid the hassle by renting a bike and leaving your car at your inn or hotel. A good spot for rentals is Cape Able Bike Shop (tel. 800/220-0907 or 207/967-4382), offering three-speeds for $10 a day or $40 a week. The bike shop, which also claims to be Maine's only 100% solar business, is at 83 Arundel Rd., north of Kennebunkport. The trolley also offers beach access ; the fare is $9 per adult per day for unlimited trips.