Hotels

Because of Thessaloniki's long history as a center for national and international trade, its large hotels have traditionally focused on serving the needs of commercial rather than leisure travelers. Recommendations avoid large, expensive hotels that have amenities more appealing to business travelers (large conference rooms) than to independent travelers (good location and pleasant accommodations). One welcome exception: the Mediterranean Palace Hotel. In recent years, Thessaloniki has gained several "boutique" hotels, notably the Capsis Bristol Hotel; in addition, some old standbys, such as the Tourist, Le Palace, the Olympia, and the Plaza Art Hotel have undergone extensive renovations.

It makes sense to reserve in advance year-round to avoid difficulties during Thessaloniki's many trade fairs, festivals, and associated cultural events. Bookings peak in September and October, when the International Trade Fair is quickly followed by the month-long Demetria cultural festival (not to mention the Festival of Greek Songs and the Film Festival!). Expect a hefty surcharge (sometimes 50% or more) on the regular rates during the fairs and festivals. Hotel prices here can be especially confusing, with online booking often advertising, but not always producing, prices much lower than those quoted by the hotels.

A Note About Rates & Hair Dryers -- The rates given are for high season in summer -- they should be lower in winter, and higher during trade fairs and the Demetria festival. As always, ask about discounts if you plan a long-term or off-season visit. Note that many hotels require that you pay for an expensive breakfast (a "compulsory" meal). As for hair dryers, they are now standard in Thessaloniki hotels; that said, I always travel with my own miniature dual-current dryer for the inevitable exception to the rule.

Just Outside Thessaloniki

We assume that you want to spend your time in Thessaloniki, rather than stay outside the city and go back and forth. But, just in case, we've listed some suggestions.

For those who cannot abide staying in any city in the summer, but still want to spend time in this city, the sprawling four-story Philippion, in the forest of Sheih-Sou to the north of the Upper City (tel. 2310/203-321; www.philippion.gr), is a good choice. Unfortunately, a series of recent summer fires has badly scarred the lovely surrounding forests. The Philippion overlooks Thessaloniki and is a 25-minute drive from the city center (hotel shuttle buses go into town frequently). The guest rooms are large and sunny, the best being on the third floor to the rear, with a view of the city.

Facilities include a pool, children's playground, and good restaurant, with local specialties such as mussels in hot-pepper sauce; live entertainment is sometimes offered in the evening. The clientele is mostly vacationing Greek families, who can be rather boisterous. The hotel's proximity to the Ring Road makes it extremely easy to reach the airport (15 min. away) and the main highways to Athens, Halkidiki, and Thrace.

If the Philippion is full, and you want a place out of town, try Panorama (tel. 2310/341-266; www.hotelpanorama.gr), 26 Analipsos, Panorama, a lovely, wooded suburb of Thessaloniki. This hotel does not have the facilities for children that the Philippion has and is usually very quiet, with fine views toward Thessaloniki and Mount Olympus. The restaurant is well respected.

Finally, if you are just passing through and changing planes at the Thessaloniki airport, try the Hyatt Regency Casino Thessaloniki (tel. 2310/401-234). It's near the airport, about 13km (8 miles) from Thessaloniki itself, and has a large casino, pools, tennis courts, spas, restaurants -- everything, in short, to pass the time between flights.

The Philippion's doubles begin at 160€ ($208); the Panorama's double rooms begin at 135€ ($176); the Hyatt Regency's doubles begin at 200€ ($260).