Hotels

Because of Thessaloniki's long history as a center for national and international trade, its large hotels have traditionally focused on serving the needs of commercial rather than leisure travelers. Recommendations below avoid large, expensive hotels that have amenities more appealing to business travelers (large conference rooms) than to independent travelers (good location and pleasant accommodations). One especially welcome exception: the Mediterranean Palace Hotel. In recent years, Thessaloniki has gained several "boutique" hotels, notably the Capsis Bristol Hotel, Andromeda, Luxembourg and Daios; in addition, some old standbys, such as the Tourist, Le Palace, the Olympia, and the Plaza Art Hotel have undergone extensive renovations.

It makes sense to reserve in advance year-round to avoid difficulties during Thessaloniki's many trade fairs, festivals, and associated cultural events. Bookings peak in September and October, when the International Trade Fair is quickly followed by the month-long Demetria cultural festival (not to mention the Festival of Greek Songs and the Film Festival!). Hotel prices here can be especially confusing, with online booking often advertising, but not always producing, prices much lower than those quoted by the hotels. Tip: Expect a hefty surcharge (sometimes 50% or more) on the regular rates that we list during the fairs and festivals.

In addition to the well-established options reviewed, here are three new small, centrally located hotels to consider that were offering surprisingly reasonable rates in 2009. Most rooms are themed at the elegant five-star Andromeda, 5 Komninon St. (tel. 2310/254-760; www.andromeda-hotel.gr; doubles from 90€-140€), with a Jacuzzi in the Tokyo Room, stark white decor in the Italian minimalist room, rose-colored brocades in the Viennese room, and so forth. The adjacent Luxembourg, 6 Komninon St. (tel. 2310/252-600; www.hotelluxembourg.gr), has more traditionally elegant rooms (soothing pastels, reassuringly heavy curtains and bedspreads), with doubles from 85€ in July and August to 150€ during high season. Both hotels are small, with personable staff and great locations steps from the action on seafront Nikis Street. If these two hotels keep their prices this low, they will be very good choices, indeed. The Daios Hotel, 59 Nikis St. (tel. 2310/250-200; www.daioshotels.com; doubles from 150€), has a great seaside location near the White Tower, steps from more cafes than you can count (including their own very elegant one) and minimalist rooms in beige and blonde tones. I find the public rooms here very engaging and the bedrooms very boring. A big plus here: excellent soundproofing on the windows and sea views from many rooms.

Just Outside Thessaloniki

When I'm in Thessaloniki, I want to be in Thessaloniki. That said, here are a few suggestions in case you'd rather stay outside the city and make excursions into town.

Summer in Thessaloniki can be both hot and humid. If you want to enjoy cool evenings, try the sprawling four-story Philippion, in the forest of Sheih-Sou to the north of the Upper City (tel. 2310/203-321; www.philippion.gr). Unfortunately, a series of recent summer fires has badly damaged the lovely forests. The Philippion overlooks Thessaloniki and is a 25-minute drive from the city center (hotel shuttle buses go into town frequently). The guest rooms are large and sunny, the best being on the third floor to the rear, with a view of the city.

Facilities include a pool, children's playground, and good restaurant, with local specialties such as mussels in hot-pepper sauce; live entertainment is sometimes offered in the evening. The clientele is mostly vacationing Greek families, who can be rather boisterous. The hotel's proximity to the Ring Road makes it extremely easy to reach the airport (15 min. away) and the main highways to Athens, Halkidiki, and Thrace.

If the Philippion is full, and you want a place out of town, try Panorama, 26 Analipsos, Panorama (tel. 2310/341-266; www.hotelpanorama.gr), a lovely, wooded suburb of Thessaloniki. This hotel prides itself on its family atmosphere but does not have the facilities for children that the Philippion has. During the week, the Panorama is usually very quiet, with fine views toward Thessaloniki and Mount Olympus. The restaurant is well respected.

Finally, if you are just passing through and changing planes at the Thessaloniki airport, there's the Hyatt Regency Casino Thessaloniki (tel. 2310/401-234). It's near the airport, about 13km (8 miles) from Thessaloniki itself, and has a large casino, pools, tennis courts, spas, restaurants -- everything, in short, to pass the time between flights.

The Philippion's doubles begin at 180€; the Panorama's double rooms begin at 140€; the Hyatt Regency's doubles begin at 200€. The Philippion and Panorama are both popular local venues for weekend weddings and baptisms.