Thessaloniki's churches are a clear case of the whole being greater than the sum of its parts. Although Ayia Sofia and Ayios Dimitrios are the two best known, the smaller, less well-known churches may give you the greatest pleasure. Notice that some, built in the basilica shape, form a rectangle with side aisles; others are in the cross-in-square form, which is just what its name says.
Many of these churches keep irregular hours, often closing from about 1 to 5pm. In short, the best way to see them is on one or more morning excursions. You can easily spend a week visiting these churches. Alternatively, you can visit the better-known ones in a rigorous day.
Admission to all churches is free. A small donation in the alms box is appreciated; it is usually found near the door or where votive candles are sold.
Dress Appropriately & Keep an Eye on the Time! -- All of the churches, which are places of worship, consider certain casual attire disrespectful (short skirts on women, shorts or sleeveless shirts on men or women). Wear clothing that covers your arms and legs. And remember that most churches close from about 1 to 5pm.
In the Upper City (Ano Poli)
Visiting the churches also means exploring the narrow streets of the Upper City, with the remains of the massive Byzantine Eptapirigion (Seven-Gated) Walls. Tsinari, the old Turkish name of the Upper City, comes from a famous local plane tree. The neighborhood is a maze of cobbled streets, with street-side fountains, corner groceries, and cafes. Many of the wooden houses here have upper floors that project out over the ground floor and overhang the street. This was a clever way of getting as much space into a house as possible on as little land as available. In the 1960s, this area was practically falling down; now, as young Thessalonians reclaim the old quarter, an address here is considered very chic. When you visit, be prepared to get lost at least once. You'll probably discover a wonderful little church, courtyard, or schoolyard while you try to find your way back. Remember: The churches close from about 1 to 5pm.
Taking the bus (no. 22 or 23 from Eleftherias Sq.) to the Upper City is an easy ride. You can then walk back downhill. When you get off the bus in the Upper City, have a look at the Byzantine walls around the Acropolis and the Byzantine defense tower called the Tower of Trigoniou.
