City Layout

Thessaloniki rests on the northern coast of the Thermaic Gulf like a lopsided turban tilted slightly to the northwest. In its center, beside the gulf, sits the city's most famous landmark, the (once-but-no-longer whitewashed) White Tower, the best-known remnant of the walls that once encircled the city. The great walls -- begun in antiquity and extended and expanded by the Byzantines, Venetians, and Turks -- came down as the population grew and the city expanded in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. To the east sprawl the ever-expanding residential districts, while to the west, situated in the area once defined by its fortresslike Byzantine walls, is the city's commercial heart.

In this latter area, bounded on the south by the harbor and on the north by the rising heights of what is called the Ano Poli (Upper City), are Thessaloniki's most important shops, banks, hotels, restaurants, archaeological remains, and churches. On its western edge are the train station, most bus terminals, many shipping docks, the Customs building, and streets lined with warehouses -- many now converted into the chic restaurants and galleries of the Ladadika district. Ladadika blurs into Ksiladika, the woodworkers' district, which is beginning to lay claim to its own chic restaurants and shops, in addition to the carpenter's workshops that originally gave the district its character. On the city center's eastern side, just north of the White Tower and outside what was once the eastern gate, are the grounds of Aristotle University, the International Trade Fair, and the Archaeological and Byzantine museums. Between the latter and the White Tower lie the Municipal Park and the State Theater of Northern Greece.

The commercial area of the city is traversed by four main streets running on an oblique angle from the southwest to the northeast. The largest, Egnatia, runs across the northern side of the commercial district. On its western end at Vardari (Dimokratias) Square, it connects with roads to the west, north, and east. On its eastern end (under the name of New Egnatia), it connects with highways to the airport and to the peninsulas of Halkidiki. In the heart of the city, Egnatia is home to discount shops, cheap hotels, and affordable restaurants. The city's second-most important commercial route, Tsimiski, parallels Egnatia 2 blocks to the south and runs one-way from east to west. Along its tree-shaded length lie the city's most prestigious shops and department stores. One block south of Tsimiski and running one-way from west to east is Mitropoleos, so named because the Metropolitan Cathedral sits near its center. Like Tsimiski, it has a number of fine shops and boutiques. Finally, another block to the south and running along the seaside promenade is Leoforos Nikis. Also one-way from west to east, it begins at the shipping docks and ends at the White Tower. Along its length is a virtually uninterrupted line of outdoor cafes and bars.

The broad expanse of Aristotelous Square, which borders the sea, is the heart of downtown Thessaloniki. Ringed with outdoor cafes and restaurants, it is also the backdrop for the city's major political rallies. Running north and south and connecting Aristotelous with the city's other major square, Dikasterion, is the street named Aristotelous. A number of book and record stores flank its arcaded sidewalks. Dikasterion Square overlooks the partially excavated Roman marketplace and offers welcome trees, the lovely Byzantine church Panagia Chalkeon (Virgin of the Copper Workers), and a restored Turkish bathhouse. You might find an informal market here run mainly by migrant workers from Eastern Europe, the former USSR, and Africa. Most local buses begin and end their city runs here.

To the south of Dikasterion Square, across Egnatia and on either side of Aristotelous, are the city's main market areas, where you can find flowers, fish, sandals, and just about anything else you can think of. The city's second main north-south route, Ayias Sofias, lies to the east of Aristotelous Street. In its center, between Egnatia and Tsimiski, stands the church of St. Sofia. Look for excellent clothing stores along Ayias Sofias. Pavlou Mela runs diagonally southeast from the rear of the church to the White Tower and sports a number of bars and cafes; leading directly south to Tsimiski from virtually the same point are the tree-lined pedestrian walkways of Iktinou and Zevksidos, sites of several outdoor cafes and restaurants. Two blocks east of the rear of Ayias Sofias Square is Thessaloniki's major pedestrian walkway, Dimitriou Gounari. Its shop-lined length covers a major Roman thoroughfare leading down from the arch to the Palace of Galerius. The palace area, now partially excavated, opens onto the tree-shaded park of Navarino Square, which is crowded with outdoor cafes, bars, and tavernas, and second only to Aristotelous as the city's major gathering place -- although many of the artists and intellectuals who gather here would place it first.

Another 2 blocks east lies Ethnikis Aminis. While it runs one-way south from Egnatia down to the State Theater and the White Tower, it becomes a two-way street above Egnatia at Sintrivaniou (Fountain) Square (the former eastern gate of the city) and leads into winding roadways that run outside the ancient walls to the Upper City.

On the hillside leading down to Thessaloniki proper from the Upper City is the old Turkish Quarter. Called, variously, Ano Poli (Upper City), Eptapirgiou (Seven Gates), and To Kastro (Fortress), it is where some of the finest Byzantine churches -- and, increasingly, some elegant restored town houses -- are located. This is easily the most pleasant part of Thessaloniki to explore, especially the winding streets around Kalitheas Square, such as Irodotou, as well as pleasant squares such as Romfei Square, in the district known as Koule Kafe, and Tsinari Square, at the juncture of Kleious and Alexandras Papadopoulou. Severe fires in 1997 and 1998 greatly damaged the pine forest of Seih Sou on the upper hills. Although a reforestation project continues, it will be years before new growth brings back Thessaloniki's "green lungs."

The Ring Road, just to the north of the Upper City, goes around Thessaloniki from the southwest to the southeast and connects the National Road from Athens with highways to Thrace and Halkidiki and to the airport at Mikras along the sea to the east.

Finding an Address -- In theory, because of the orderly east-west, north-south arrangement of streets, finding an address in the city center should be easy. Unfortunately, buildings almost never have visible numbers; ask for what you want by name, not by number. Still, just in case you spot some street numbers, they should begin at the eastern and southern ends of streets and go upward, with even numbers on the right and odd numbers on the left. Most Thessalonians think of addresses in terms of the cross streets or well-known structures near them and give directions by local landmarks -- which, of course, does not always help outsiders, especially when the local landmark may be one that was torn down decades ago! Outside the city center, particularly north of Egnatia, finding what you want is not easy, as the streets begin to meander. Even with a good map, you'll probably have trouble, but take it, as the Greeks say, "Siga, siga" ("Slowly, slowly"), and you'll find your way.