Hotels

Tokyo has no old, grand hotels in the tradition of the Peninsula in Hong Kong or the Raffles in Singapore; it has hardly any old hotels, period. But what the city's hotels may lack in quaintness or old grandeur is more than made up for by excellent service -- for which the Japanese are legendary -- as well as cleanliness and efficiency. Be prepared, however, for small rooms. Space is at a premium in Tokyo, so with the exception of some rooms in very expensive hotels, rooms seem to come in three sizes: minuscule, small, and barely adequate.

Unfortunately, neither does Tokyo have many first-class ryokan, or Japanese-style inns. I suggest, therefore, that you wait for your travels outside Tokyo to experience a first-rate ryokan. Alternatively, most of Tokyo's upper-bracket hotels offer at least a few Japanese-style rooms, with tatami mats, Japanese bathtubs (deeper and narrower than the Western version), and futons. Although these rooms tend to be expensive, they're usually large enough for four people. There are also inexpensive Japanese-style inns in Tokyo. In fact, if you're on a tight budget, a simple Japanese-style inn is often the cheapest way to go.

A Note on Prices -- The prices quoted here were figured at ¥105 = US$1. Because of fluctuations in the exchange rate of the yen, however, the U.S. dollar equivalents given will probably vary during the lifetime of this edition. Be sure to check current exchange rates when planning your trip. In addition, the rates given may increase, so be sure to ask for the current rate when making your reservation.

Price Categories -- Since Tokyo's attractions, restaurants, and nightlife are widely scattered, and since the public transportation system is fast and efficient (I've provided the nearest subway or train stations for each listing), there's no one location in Tokyo that's more convenient than another -- and because this is one of the most expensive hotel cities in the world, the overriding factor in selecting accommodations will likely be cost. I've divided Tokyo's hotels into price categories based upon two people per night, including tax: Very Expensive hotels charge ¥45,000 ($428) and above, Expensive hotels charge ¥30,000 to ¥44,000 ($285-$418), Moderate hotels offer rooms for ¥15,000 to ¥29,000 ($143-$275), and Inexpensive accommodations offer rooms for less than ¥15,000 ($143). Unless otherwise indicated, units have private bathrooms.

Taxes & Service Charges -- All hotel rates below include a 5% government tax. However, an additional local hotel tax will be added to bills that cost more than ¥10,000 ($95) per person per night. ¥100 (95¢) is levied per person per night for rates between ¥10,000 and ¥14,999 ($95-$142); rates of ¥15,000 ($143) and up are taxed at ¥200 ($1.90). Furthermore, upper-class hotels and most medium-range hotels will add a service charge of 10% to 15% (cheaper establishments do not add a service charge, because no service is provided).

Busy Times -- Although Tokyo doesn't suffer from a lack of hotel rooms during peak holidays (when most Japanese head for the hills and beaches), rooms may be in short supply because of conventions and other events. If possible, avoid coming to Tokyo in mid-February unless you book well in advance -- that's when university entrance exams bring multitudes of aspiring high school students and their parents to the capital for a shot at entering one of the most prestigious universities in the country. And in summer, when there are many foreign tourists in Japan, the cheaper accommodations are often the first to fill up.

It's always best, therefore, to make your hotel reservations in advance, especially if you're arriving in Tokyo after a long transoceanic flight and don't want the hassle of searching for a hotel room.

Welcome Inn Reservation Center -- If you're looking for help in booking moderately priced and budget accommodations, at the top of my list is the Welcome Inn Reservation Center, operated in cooperation with the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO). Some 40 modestly priced accommodations in Tokyo, including business hotels and Japanese-style inns, are members of Welcome Inn, with rates of ¥8,000 ($76) or less for a single and ¥13,000 ($124) or less for a double. No fee is charged for the service, but you are asked to guarantee your reservation with a credit card.

In addition to booking rooms via the Internet at www.itcj.jp, you can book a room by appearing in person at one of the three TIC offices in Tokyo -- at Narita Airport (in the arrivals lobbies of Terminals 1 and 2), or near Yurakucho Station in the heart of the city. Reservations are accepted at the Narita TIC daily from 9am to 7:30pm; and at the Tokyo TIC daily from 9 to 11:30am and 1 to 4:30pm.

Surfing For Hotels -- For Japan-specific websites, government-approved moderate and higher-priced hotels that are members of the Japan Hotel Association are listed at www.j-hotel.or.jp/welcome-e.html. Likewise, high-priced, government-registered members of the Japan Ryokan Association can be found at www.ryokan.or.jp. Budget-priced Japanese inns -- which do not offer the service or the class of high-priced inns but do offer the experience of sleeping Japanese-style -- who are members of the Japanese Inn Group (see chapter 5 for details) -- are listed at www.jpinn.com. In addition, some 40 modestly priced accommodations in Tokyo are members of the Welcome Inn Reservations system, all priced at about ¥13,000 ($124) or less for a double; see www.itcj.jp for information and bookings. But Japan's largest online hotel reservations company for budget and moderately priced accommodations is http://travel.rakuten.co.jp/en/index.html.

Very Expensive Hotels

Several international first-class hotels are entering the Tokyo market, creating fierce competition with long-established domestic rivals. These include the Mandarin Oriental near Tokyo Station (www.mandarinoriental.com; opened end of 2005), The Peninsula Tokyo in the Marunouchi/Hibiya business district (www.peninsula.com; opening 2007), and The Ritz-Carlton in Roppongi (www.riztcarlton.com; opening 2007).

Capsule Hotels

There's another inexpensive lodging option in Tokyo, but it's not for the claustrophobic. So-called capsule hotels, which became popular in the early 1980s, are used primarily by Japanese businessmen who have spent an evening out drinking with fellow workers and missed the last train -- a capsule hotel is cheaper than a taxi ride home. They're located mostly near nightlife districts or major train stations. Sleeping units are small (no larger than a coffin) yet contain a bed, private color TV, alarm clock, and radio; the units are usually stacked two deep in rows down a corridor, and the only thing separating you from your probably inebriated neighbor is a curtain. A cotton kimono and locker are provided, and facilities usually include public baths, sauna, and vending machines selling everything from beer to instant noodles to toothbrushes.

Most capsule hotels do not accept women. Two that do, with separate facilities for the sexes, are [1] Hotel Asakusa & Capsule, 4-14-9 Kotobuki, Taito-ku (tel. 03/3847-4477 but no English spoken and no reservations accepted; station: Tawaramachi, 3 min.), which accepts only drop-ins and is located about a 6-minute walk south of Asakusa's Sensoji Temple; and Fontaine Akasaka, 4-3-5 Akasaka, Minato-ku (tel. 03/3583-6554; station: Akasaka, 2 min., or Akasaka-mitsuke, 5 min.), which also has a sauna (¥1,300/$12 per hr.). Prices average from about ¥4,500 to ¥4,800 ($43-$46) per night; credit cards are usually not accepted. Check-in is generally 4 or 5pm, and checkout is about 9:30 or 10am. Since everyone has to pack up and vacate cubicles during the day (coin lockers are generally available but may not be large enough for a big suitcase), curious foreigners may wish to experience a capsule hotel only as a one-night stand.