Hotels

Tokyo has no old, grand hotels in the tradition of the Peninsula in Hong Kong or the Raffles in Singapore; it has hardly any old hotels, period. But what the city's hotels may lack in quaintness or old grandeur is more than made up for by excellent service -- for which the Japanese are legendary -- as well as cleanliness and efficiency. Be prepared, however, for small rooms. Space is at a premium in Tokyo, so with the exception of some rooms in very expensive hotels, rooms seem to come in three sizes: minuscule, small, and barely adequate.

Unfortunately, neither does Tokyo have many first-class ryokan, or Japanese-style inns. I suggest, therefore, that you wait for your travels outside Tokyo to experience a first-rate ryokan. Alternatively, most of Tokyo's upper-bracket hotels offer at least a few Japanese-style rooms, with tatami mats, Japanese bathtubs (deeper and narrower than the Western version), and futons. Although these rooms tend to be expensive, they're usually large enough for four people. There are also inexpensive Japanese-style inns in Tokyo. In fact, if you're on a tight budget, a simple Japanese-style inn is often the cheapest way to go.

Price Categories

Since Tokyo's attractions, restaurants, and nightlife are widely scattered, and since the public transportation system is fast and efficient (I've provided the nearest subway or train stations for each listing), there's no one location in Tokyo that's more convenient than another -- and because this is one of the most expensive hotel cities in the world, the overriding factor in selecting accommodations will likely be cost. I've divided Tokyo's hotels into price categories based upon two people per night, including tax: Very Expensive hotels charge ¥50,000 ($415/£210) and above, Expensive hotels range from ¥30,000 to ¥50,000 ($249-$415/£126-£210), Moderate hotels offer rooms from ¥16,000 to ¥30,000 ($133-$249/£67-£126), and Inexpensive accommodations offer rooms for less than ¥16,000 ($133/£67). Unless otherwise indicated, units have private bathrooms.

A Note on Prices -- The prices quoted in this book were figured at ¥120 = US$1. Because of fluctuations in the exchange rate of the yen, however, the U.S. dollar equivalents given will probably vary during the lifetime of this edition. Be sure to check current exchange rates when planning your trip. In addition, the rates given below may increase, so be sure to ask for the current rate when making your reservation.

Very Expensive & Expensive -- Tokyo's top hotels can rival upper-range hotels anywhere in the world. Although many of the city's best hotels may not show much character from the outside, inside they're oases of subdued simplicity where hospitality reigns supreme. In addition to fine Japanese- and Western-style restaurants, they may also offer travel agencies, business centers, guest relations officers to help with any problems or requests you may have (from making a restaurant reservation to finding an address), shopping arcades, cocktail lounges with live music, spas, and health clubs with swimming pools. Unfortunately, health clubs and swimming pools usually cost extra -- anywhere from ¥2,000 to an outrageous ¥5,000 ($17-$42/£8.40-£21) per single use; I've noted below where extra fees are imposed (if no fee is given, entrance is free). Note, too, that outdoor pools are generally open only in July and August.

Rooms in upper-range hotels come with such standard features as minibars, cable TVs with CNN and pay movies, high-speed dataports or wireless connections, clocks, radios, yukata, duvet-covered beds, hot-water pots and tea (and sometimes coffee, but you usually pay extra for it), hair dryers, and private bathrooms with tub/showers. All also have washlet toilets, a combination toilet and spray bidet. Because they're accustomed to foreigners, all upper-range hotels employ English-speaking staff and offer nonsmoking floors. Services provided include room service, same-day laundry and dry-cleaning service, and complimentary English-language newspapers such as the Japan Times delivered to your room. Many hotels also offer executive floors, which are generally on the highest floors and offer such perks as private lounges with separate check-in, more in-room amenities, free continental breakfasts and cocktails, extended checkout times, and privileges that can include free use of the health club. At just a few thousand yen more than regular rates, these can be quite economical.

In addition to the recommendations here, The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho (tel. 866/382-8388 in the U.S. or 03/6270-2888; http://tokyo.peninsula.com), opened in 2007 across from the Imperial Palace as Tokyo's newest luxury property with 314 rooms, five restaurants, a fitness center with a pool, and a spa, with rates beginning at ¥60,000 ($498/£252) for a single or twin.

Moderate -- Moderately priced accommodations vary from tourist hotels to business hotels, with business hotels making up the majority. Catering primarily to traveling Japanese businessmen, a business hotel is a no-frills establishment with tiny, sparsely furnished rooms, most of them singles, with barely enough space to unpack your bags. If you're a large person, you may have trouble sleeping in a place like this. Primarily just a place to crash for the night, these rooms usually have everything you need -- minuscule private bathroom, TV, telephone, radio, clock, hair dryer, hot-water pot with tea, and usually a minibar or an empty fridge you can stock yourself. There's no room service, and sometimes not even a lobby or coffee shop, although there may be vending machines that dispense beer and soda. There may be same-day laundry service as well, if you give up your laundry by 10am (no laundry service is available Sun and holidays). Some business hotels may not offer nonsmoking rooms. On the plus side, they're usually situated in convenient locations near train or subway stations. If you're interested simply in a clean and functional place to sleep rather than in roomy comfort, a nondescript business hotel may be the way to go.

Inexpensive -- It's difficult to find inexpensive lodgings in Tokyo; the price of land is simply prohibitive. You can, however, find rooms -- tiny though they may be -- for less than $100/£50 a night for two people, which is pretty good considering that you're in one of the most expensive cities in the world. Inexpensive accommodations include a bed or futon and (usually) phone, TV, heating, and air-conditioning. Unless otherwise indicated, units also have private bathrooms and are generally spotless. Inexpensive Japanese-style rooms make up the majority in this category; they're described in more detail above.

Many foreigners find Japan so expensive that they end up becoming youth hostel regulars, even though they may never consider staying in one in other countries. There's no age limit at hostels in Japan (except children younger than 4 may not be accepted), and although most require a youth-hostel membership card, they often let foreigners stay without one for about ¥600 ($5/£2.50) extra per night. However, there are usually quite a few restrictions, such as a 9 or 10pm curfew, a lights-out policy shortly thereafter, an early breakfast time, and closed times through the day, generally from about 10am to 3pm. In addition, rooms usually hold many bunk beds or futons, affording little privacy. On the other hand, these are certainly the cheapest accommodations in Tokyo.

Taxes & Service Charges

All hotel rates below include a 5% government tax. In addition, an additional local hotel tax will be added to bills that cost more than ¥10,000 ($83/£42) per person per night: ¥100 (85¢/40p) is levied per person per night for rates between ¥10,000 and ¥14,999 ($83-$124/£42-£63); rates of ¥15,000 ($125/£63) and up are taxed at ¥200 ($1.65/85p). Furthermore, upper-class hotels and most medium-range hotels add a service charge of 10% to 15% (cheaper establishments do not add a service charge, because no service is provided). Unless otherwise stated, the prices given include all taxes and service charge.

Busy Times

Although Tokyo doesn't suffer from a lack of hotel rooms during peak holidays (when most Japanese head for the hills and beaches), rooms may be in short supply because of conventions and other events. If possible, avoid coming to Tokyo in mid-February unless you book well in advance -- that's when university entrance exams bring multitudes of aspiring high-school students and their parents to the capital for a shot at entering one of the most prestigious universities in the country. In summer, when many foreign tourists are in Japan, the cheaper accommodations are often the first to fill up.

It's always best, therefore, to make your hotel reservations in advance, especially if you're arriving in Tokyo after a long transoceanic flight and don't want the hassle of searching for a hotel room.

Welcome Inn Reservation Center

If you're looking for help in booking moderately priced and budget accommodations, at the top of my list is the Welcome Inn Reservation Center, operated in cooperation with the Japan National Tourist Organization (JNTO). Some 50 modestly priced accommodations in Tokyo, including business hotels and Japanese-style inns, are members of Welcome Inn, with rates of ¥8,000 ($66/£34) or less for a single and ¥13,000 ($108/£55) or less for a double. There's no fee for the service, but you are asked to guarantee your reservation with a credit card.

In addition to booking rooms via the Internet at www.itcj.jp, you can book a room by appearing in person at one of the three TIC offices in Tokyo -- at Narita Airport (in the arrivals lobbies of terminals 1 and 2), or near Yurakucho Station in the heart of the city, on the 10th floor of the Kotsu Kaikan Building (2-10-1 Yurakucho; tel. 03/3201-3331). Reservations are accepted at the Narita TIC daily from 8am to 7:30pm; and at the Tokyo TIC daily from 9 to 11:30am and 1 to 4:45pm.

Capsule Hotels

There's another inexpensive lodging option in Tokyo, but it's not for the claustrophobic. So-called capsule hotels, which became popular in the early 1980s, are used primarily by Japanese businessmen who have spent an evening out drinking with fellow workers and missed the last train -- a capsule hotel is cheaper than a taxi ride home. They're located mostly near nightlife districts or major train stations. Sleeping units are small (no larger than a coffin) yet contain a bed, private TV, alarm clock, and radio; the units are usually stacked two deep in rows down a corridor, and the only thing separating you from your probably inebriated neighbor is a curtain. A cotton kimono and locker are provided, and facilities usually include public baths, sauna, and vending machines selling everything from beer to instant noodles to toothbrushes.

Most capsule hotels do not accept women. Two that do, with separate facilities for the sexes, are [1] Hotel Asakusa & Capsule, 4-14-9 Kotobuki, Taito-ku (tel. 03/3847-4477 but no English spoken and no reservations accepted; station: Tawaramachi, 3 min.), which is located about a 6-minute walk south of Asakusa's Sensoji Temple; and Capsule Inn Akihabara, 6-9 Akihabara, Taito-ku (tel. 03/3251-0841; www.capsuleinn.com; station: Akihabara, 5 min.), which offers the usual capsule accommodations, plus a pod of capsules in one room for two to four women traveling together, as well as two computers guests can use for free and wireless access in the lounge. Prices average about ¥4,000 ($33/£17) per night; credit cards are usually not accepted. Check-in is generally 4 or 5pm, and checkout is about 9:30 or 10am. Since everyone has to pack up and vacate cubicles during the day (coin lockers are generally available but may not be large enough for a big suitcase), curious foreigners may wish to experience a capsule hotel only as a 1-night stand. An even cheaper alternative if you're suddenly in need of a place to spend the night: springing for a night package on a private cubicle in an Internet/manga cafe.