Best Hotel Bets

Best Historic Japanese-Style Inn: Homeikan, 5-10-5 Hongo (tel. 03/3811-1181), consists of three historic buildings, one with a Japanese garden and very nice tatami rooms. A great choice for those who don't mind roughing it a bit (there are no private bathrooms), this is traditional Japanese living at inexpensive rates.

Best Modern Japanese-Style Inn: With a great location in historic Asakusa, just a stone's throw from famous Sensoji Temple, Ryokan Shigetsu, 1-31-11 Asakusa (tel. 03/3843-2345), is a modern, moderately priced Japanese-style inn that combines the best of the old and the new with simple yet elegant interiors that utilize natural woods and artwork throughout. If you want to experience a Japanese inn but don't want to sleep on a futon, stay in one of Shigetsu's Western-style rooms, but don't pass up the public bath with views of the five-story pagoda.

Best for Business Travelers: Imperial Hotel, 1-1-1 Uchisaiwai-cho, across from Hibiya Park (tel. 800/223-6800 in the U.S. and Canada, or 03/3504-1111), wins my vote as the best for business travelers, with its central location close to the Ginza and financial districts, excellent service, 17 restaurants and bars, 24-hour room service, an extensively equipped business center, comfortable rooms complete with three phones, a fax machine, free high-speed Internet access, and a safe large enough for a briefcase.

Best for a Romantic Getaway: Nothing beats a weekend getaway to the historic Fujiya Hotel, in Hakone (tel. 0460/2-2211). Established in 1878, it is one of Japan's finest, most majestic hotels, boasting great views, Japanese- and Western-style architecture, a wonderful 1930s dining hall, and a large landscaped garden perfect for moonlit walks.

Best Trendy Hotel: Hotel Sofitel, 2-1-48 Ikenohata, in Ueno (tel. 800/221-4542 in the U.S. and Canada, or 03/5685-7111), is not only Tokyo's most uniquely shaped hotel -- five trapezoids stacked on top of each other -- it's also Tokyo's best-kept secret. A sophisticated boutique hotel with only four rooms on each floor, it offers great views of Shinobazu Pond and a fine French restaurant.

Best Budget Accommodations: Although the building is rather nondescript, Ryokan Sawanoya, 2-3-11 Yanaka, in Ueno (tel. 03/3822-2251), is nestled in a delightful neighborhood of traditional shops and old wooden houses; the English-speaking owner goes out of his way to introduce the neighborhood and make guests feel at home with such extras as complimentary tea and instant coffee, and free laundry detergent. An added bonus is the free weekly lion dances performed by his son.

Best Views: If it's winter, when Mount Fuji is most likely to be visible, the Park Hyatt Tokyo, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (tel. 800/233-1234 in the U.S. and Canada, or 03/5322-1234), affords great views of Japan's tallest mountain.

Best Hotel Garden: Hotel New Otani, 4-1 Kioi-cho, in Akasaka (tel. 800/421-8795 in the U.S. and Canada, or 03/3265-1111), has a beautiful 400-year-old Japanese garden that once belonged to a feudal lord. Its sprawling 4 hectares (10 acres) contain ponds, waterfalls, bridges, bamboo groves, and manicured bushes.

Best Hotel for Pretending You're Not in Tokyo: Located on the man-made island of Odaiba, Hotel Nikko Tokyo, 1-9-1 Daiba (tel. 800/645-5687 in the U.S. and Canada, or 03/5500-5500), has a resortlike atmosphere, is surrounded by parks and gardens, and is just a short walk away from a sandy swimming beach. A glance outside your hotel room, however, serves as a reminder -- the city skyline crowds the edge of Tokyo Bay.

Best Splurge Hotels:

Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Chinzan-So (2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo-ku; tel. 800/332-3442 in the U.S., or 03/3943-2222): Set amid luscious grounds, this top-notch property has virtually everything going for it (with the exception of a rather obscure location in northeast Tokyo). Enjoy European comfort blended with Asian decor, the best and most attractive health spa of any hotel in Tokyo, and rooms with peaceful garden views.

Four Seasons Hotel Tokyo at Marunouchi (1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku; tel. 800/332-3442 in the U.S., or 03/5222-7222): A location next to Tokyo Station makes this small, intimate hotel number one for convenience, whether you're flying into Tokyo, arriving by Shinkansen bullet train, or walking from the Ginza. Yet with only 57 rooms, it cocoons guests from the mad whirl of central Tokyo with the best money can buy, including service above and beyond the call of duty.

Hotel Okura (2-10-4 Toranomon, Minato-ku; tel. 800/223-6800 in the U.S., or 03/3582-0111): This venerable Tokyo old-timer has managed to remain at the top of the pack, with polished service, a low-key yet refined atmosphere, rooms overlooking a small garden, and a full-service spa. Its location across from the U.S. embassy and its established reputation have long attracted a steady stream of visiting U.S. dignitaries and celebrities, including the Rolling Stones, Yo-Yo Ma, Henry Kissinger, and David Bowie.

Park Hyatt Tokyo (3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku; tel. 800/233-1234 in the U.S. and Canada, or 03/5322-1234): This was one of my favorite hotels long before it became a Lost in Translation celebrity. Quite simply, it's among the most gorgeous and sophisticated hotels in Japan, with rooms to die for, stunning views, and one of Tokyo's best restaurants. It also wins kudos for free entry for hotel guests to its dramatic, sunlit, 20m (66-ft.) indoor pool, on the 47th floor with great views over Tokyo.

Best Moderately Priced Hotels:

The Hilltop Hotel (1-1 Surugadai, in Kanda; tel. 03/3293-2311): Established in 1937, this unassuming hotel is the closest Tokyo has to a historic hotel. With an Art Deco facade, it boasts such endearing touches as fringed lampshades, doilies, cherrywood furniture, velvet curtains, and old-fashioned heaters. With only 74 rooms, it also boasts a surprising number of restaurants and bars.

Hotel Century Southern Tower (2-2-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku; tel. 03/5354-0111): Occupying the top floors of a Shinjuku skyscraper just a couple minutes' walk from Shinjuku Station, this bright and modern property offers great views, a convenient location, and comfortable rooms.

Hotel Monterey La Soeur (1-10-18 Ginza, Chuo-ku; tel. 03/3562-7111): I've always been impressed with the Monterey chain's properties, and this hotel in the Ginza is no exception. It boasts a great location and a cozy, boutiquelike atmosphere, making it very popular with Japanese women who are always quick to recognize a bargain when they see one.