Getting Around

Your most frustrating moments in Tokyo will probably occur when you find you're totally lost. Maybe it will be in a subway or train station, where all you see are signs in Japanese, or on a street somewhere as you search for a museum, restaurant, or bar. At any rate, accept here and now that you will get lost if you are at all adventurous and eager to strike out on your own. It's inevitable. But take comfort in the fact that Japanese get lost, too -- even taxi drivers!

The second rule of getting around Tokyo: It will always take longer than you think. For short-term visitors, calculating travel times in Tokyo is tricky business. Taking a taxi is expensive and involves the probability of getting stuck interminably in traffic, with the meter ticking away. Taking the subway is usually more efficient, even though it's more complicated and harder on your feet: Choosing which route to take isn't always clear, and transfers between lines are sometimes quite a hike in themselves. If I'm going from one end of Tokyo to the other by subway, I usually allow myself anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the number of transfers and the walking distance to my final destination. The journey from Roppongi or Shibuya to Ueno, for example, takes approximately a half-hour because it's a straight shot on the subway, but a trip requiring transfers can take much longer. Traveling times to destinations along each line are posted on platform pillars, along with diagrams showing which train compartments are best for making quick transfers between lines.

Your best bet for getting around Tokyo is to take the subway or Japan Railways (JR) commuter train to the station nearest your destination. From there you can either walk, using a map and asking directions along the way, or take a taxi.

For all hotels, ryokan, restaurants, sights, shops, and nightlife venues listed in this book, I've included both the nearest station and, in parentheses, the number of minutes' walk required to get from the station to the destination.

By Taxi

Taxis are shamefully expensive in Tokyo. Fares start at ¥660 ($6.25) for the first 2km (1 1/4 miles) and increase ¥80 (75¢) for each additional 274m (904 ft.) or 40 seconds of waiting time. Smaller, more compact taxis start out at slightly less -- ¥640 ($6.10) for the first 2km (1 1/4 miles) -- and their fare increases ¥80 (75¢) for each additional 290m (957 ft.). Fares are posted on the back of the front passenger seat. If you're like me, however, you probably won't shop around -- you'll gratefully jump into the first taxi that stops. Note that from 11pm to 5am, an extra 30% is added to your fare. Perhaps as an admission of how expensive taxis are, fares can also be paid by all major credit cards.

With the exception of some major thoroughfares in the downtown area, you can hail a taxi from any street or go to a taxi stand or a major hotel. A red light above the dashboard shows if a taxi is free to pick up a passenger; a green light indicates that the taxi is occupied. Be sure to stand clear of the back door -- it swings open automatically. Likewise, it shuts automatically once you're in. Taxi drivers are quite perturbed if you try to maneuver the door yourself.

Unless you're going to a well-known landmark or hotel, it's best to have your destination written out in Japanese, since most taxi drivers don't speak English. But even that may not help. Tokyo is so complicated that taxi drivers may not know a certain area, although they do have detailed maps, and some have navigation systems. If a driver doesn't understand where you're going, he may refuse to take you. Otherwise, don't be surprised if he jumps out of the cab to inquire about directions at a nearby shop -- with the meter ticking.

There are so many taxis cruising Tokyo that you can hail one easily on most thoroughfares -- except when you need it most: when it's raining; or just after 1am on weekends, after all subways and trains have stopped. To call a major taxi company for a pickup, try Nihon Kotsu (tel. 03/5755-2151) or Kokusai (tel. 03/3505-6001). Note, however, that Japanese is spoken and you'll be required to pay extra (usually not more than ¥500/$4.75) for the pickup. I have rarely telephoned for a taxi -- as in the movies, one usually cruises by just when I raise my hand.

By Public Transportation

If you think you'll be using a combination of public transportation systems in 1 day -- subway, JR train (except JR express trains) and Toei bus (except double-decker buses) -- consider purchasing a Tokyo Free Kippu which, despite its name, costs ¥1,580 ($15), but does allow unlimited travel for 1 day. It's available at all JR stations, JR View Plazas, and most subway stations.

There's a four-color Tokyo Metro map, with subway and train lines, on the inside back cover of this book.

By Subway

To get around Tokyo on your own, it's imperative that you learn how to ride its subways. Fortunately, the Tokyo Metro system (which uses a symbol "M" vaguely reminiscent of McDonald's famous arches) is efficient, modern, clean, and easy to use; in fact, I think it's one of the most user-friendly systems on the planet. All station names are written in English. Many cars also display the next station in English on digital signs above their doors and announce stops in English. Altogether, there are 12 underground subway lines crisscrossing the city, and each line is color-coded. The Ginza Line, for example, is orange, which means that all its trains and signs are orange. Each line is also assigned a letter (usually its initial), so that the Ginza has the letter "G" and Hibiya the letter "H." Additionally, each station along the way is assigned a number, so you always know how many stops there are until you reach your destination. If you're transferring to the Ginza Line from another line, follow the orange signs and circles to the Ginza Line platform. Before boarding, however, make sure the train is going in the right direction. To make transfers easier, diagrams on each platform (usually on a pillar near the entrance) show which train compartment is most convenient for making the transfer. Tokyo's newest line, the Oedo Line, makes a zigzag loop around the city and is useful for traveling between Roppongi and Shinjuku; be aware, however, that it's buried deep underground and that platforms take a while to reach, despite escalators.

Tickets -- Vending machines at all subway stations sell tickets, which begin at ¥160 ($1.50) for the shortest distance and increase according to the distance you travel. Children 6 to 11 pay half-fare; children under 6 ride free. Vending machines give change; most accept ¥1,000, ¥2,000, ¥5,000, and ¥10,000 notes. To purchase your ticket, insert money into the vending machine until the fare buttons light up, then push the amount for the ticket you want. Your ticket and change will be deposited at the bottom of the machine.

Before purchasing your ticket, you first have to figure out your fare. Fares are posted on a large subway map above the vending machines, but they're often in Japanese; most stations also post a smaller map or table listing fares in English, but you may have to search for it. An alternative is to look at the subway map contained in the "Tourist Map of Tokyo" issued by the Tourist Information Center -- it lists stations in both Japanese and English. Once you know what the Japanese characters look like, you may be able to locate your station and its corresponding fare. If you still don't know the fare, ask a station attendant; or buy a basic-fare ticket for ¥160 ($1.50). When you exit at your destination, look for the fare adjustment machine; insert your ticket to find out how much more you owe, or go to the exit, where a subway employee will tell you how much you owe. In any case, be sure to hang onto your ticket, since you must give it up at the exit wicket at the end of your journey.

Since buying individual tickets is a hassle (and vending machines are unfortunately not as user-friendly as the subway system is), I suggest investing in a prepaid Passnet Card, also sold at ticket vending machines for rides worth ¥1,000 ($9.50), ¥3,000 ($29), and ¥5,000 ($48). Insert the card into the automatic ticket gates upon entering and exiting the subway wickets; the charge for your ride will be electronically deducted from the card. You can also use your Passnet in the vending machine to purchase regular single tickets for someone traveling with you. Since rides on the subway can really add up, you'll find the ¥1,000 Passnet useful even if you're staying in Tokyo only a few days (five rides alone will probably end up costing more than ¥1,000). Alternatively, a 1-day Economy Pass (Kyotsu Ichinichi Josha Ken) for unlimited rides on all subway lines costs ¥1,000 ($9.50). Although other types of tickets and passes are available, I find them too complicated for short-time visitors.

Hours -- Most subways run from about 5am to midnight, although the times of the first and last trains depend on the line, the station, and whether it's a weekday or weekend. Schedules are posted in the stations, but most days trains arrive every 3 to 5 minutes.

Avoid taking the subway during the weekday morning rush hour, from 8 to 9am -- the stories you've heard about commuters packed into trains like sardines are all true. There are even "platform pushers," men who push people into compartments so that the doors can close. If you want to witness Tokyo at its craziest, go to Shinjuku Station at 8:30am -- but go by taxi unless you want to experience the crowding firsthand. Most lines provide women-only compartments weekdays until 9:30am.

Another thing you'll want to keep in mind are station exits, which are always numbered. Upon alighting from the subway onto the platform, look for the yellow signboards designating which exit to take for major buildings, museums, and addresses. If you're confused about which exit to take, ask someone at the window near the ticket gate. Taking the right exit can make a world of difference, especially in Shinjuku, where there are more than 60 station exits.

For more information on tickets, passes, and lines for the subway, as well as a detailed map and brochure, stop by information desks located at Ginza, Shinjuku, Nihombashi, and Otemachi stations. Or check the website www.tokyometro.jp.

Transfers on the Subway & Train -- You can transfer between most subway lines without buying another ticket, and you can transfer between JR train lines on one ticket. However, your ticket or prepaid card does not allow a transfer between Tokyo's two subway companies (Metro and Toei), JR train lines, and private train lines connecting Tokyo with outlying destinations such as Nikko. You usually don't have to worry about this, though, because if you exit through a wicket and have to give up your ticket, you'll know you have to buy another one.

There are a few instances, however, when you pass through a ticket wicket to transfer between subway lines, in which case your ticket will be returned to you if your destination is farther along. The general rule is that if your final destination and fare are posted above the ticket vending machines, you can travel all the way to your destination with only one ticket. But don't worry about this too much -- the ticket collector will set you straight if you've miscalculated. Note, however, that if you pay too much for your ticket, the portion of the fare that's left unused is not refundable -- so, again, the easiest thing to do if in doubt is to buy the cheapest fare.

By JR Train

As an alternative to subways, electric commuter trains operated by the East Japan Railways Company (JR) run aboveground. These trains are also color-coded, with fares beginning at ¥130 ($1.25). Buy your ticket from vending machines the same as you would for the subway.

The Yamanote Line (green-colored coaches) is the best-known and most convenient JR line. It makes an oblong loop around the city, stopping at 29 stations along the way. In fact, you may want to take the Yamanote Line and stay on it for a roundup view of Tokyo; the entire trip takes about an hour, passing stations like Shinjuku, Tokyo, Harajuku, Akihabara, and Ueno on the way.

Another convenient JR line is the orange-colored Chuo Line; it cuts across Tokyo between Shinjuku and Tokyo stations, with both express (which doesn't make as many stops) and local trains available. The yellow-colored Sobu Line runs between Shinjuku and Akihabara and beyond to Chiba. Other JR lines serve outlying districts for the metropolis's commuting public, including Yokohama and Kamakura. Since the Yamanote, Chuo, and Sobu lines are rarely identified by their specific names at major stations, look for signs that say JR LINES.

If you think you'll be traveling by JR lines quite a bit, consider purchasing a prepaid Suica iO Card for ¥2,000 ($19), which includes a ¥500 ($4.75) deposit. (The deposit is returned when you turn in the card, but you'll be charged a ¥210/$2 service fee for a refund of any unused portion remaining on the card.) It allows you to travel without having to purchase a separate JR ticket each time and is used by placing it on a scanner at the automatic fare gate. There's also a JR 1-Day Tokunai Pass, which allows unlimited travel for ¥730 ($6.95).

For more information on JR lines and tickets, stop by one of JR's Information Centers at Tokyo Station (Central Passage; daily 9am-7pm) or Shinjuku Station (the east side; daily 10am-6:30pm). Or call the English-language JR East Infoline at tel. 050/2016-1603 daily from 10am to 6pm. You can also check its website at www.jreast.co.jp/e.

By Bus

Buses are difficult to use in Tokyo because destinations are sometimes written in Japanese only, and most bus drivers don't speak English. Buses are sometimes convenient for short distances, however. If you're feeling adventurous, board the bus at the front and drop the exact fare (usually ¥200/$1.90) into the box. If you don't have the exact amount, fare boxes accept coins or bills; your change will come out below. A signboard at the front of the bus displays the next stop, sometimes in English. When you wish to get off, press one of the buttons on the railing near the door or the seats. You can pick up an excellent Toei bus map showing all major routes at one of the Tokyo Tourist Information Centers operated by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government. Or check the Toei website at www.kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp. On Odaiba, a rotating free Bay Shuttle bus runs to area sights from 11am to 8pm.

By Boat

Although all tourist destinations are accessible by land transportation, some sights in Tokyo Bay or on the Sumida River are served by sightseeing boat, an enjoyable way to travel and see the Tokyo skyline. Boats depart from Hinode Pier near Hamamatsucho and Hinoda stations and travel to Asakusa via the Sumida River, as well as to Tokyo Sea Life Park and the Museum of Maritime Science on Odaiba. The trip from Hinode Pier to Asakusa takes approximately 40 minutes and costs ¥660 ($6.25). You can also reach Asakusa by boat from Hama Rikyu Garden. Pick up a brochure at the TIC or call the Tokyo Cruise Ship Co. at tel. 03/5733-4812. A timetable is posted on its website at www.suijobus.co.jp.