In Two Days

You'll be packing in the activities for Day 2 as well, starting out at the Edo-Tokyo Museum, then strolling through the electronic-goods haven, Akihabara Electric Town. Next, it's on to Harajuku, one of Tokyo's most vibrant neighborhoods; Tokyo's most venerable Shinto shrine; a museum devoted to woodblock prints; and Oriental Bazaar, a great shop for souvenirs. Finish the day with a trip to Shinjuku, where you'll have a bird's-eye view of the sprawling metropolis from an observation deck (it's free!). After dinner, take a stroll through Shinjuku's Kabuki-cho happening nightlife district, ablaze with neon. Start: Subway or JR Sobu Line to Ryogoku.

1. Edo-Tokyo Museum

This wonderful museum chronicles what life was like for the people who lived here, beginning with Edo's founding in 1590 and continuing to 1964 (when Tokyo hosted the Olympics). The museum presents vivid accounts of the lives of shoguns, merchants, craftsmen, and townspeople. Be sure to take advantage of free museum tours. Closed Monday.

Take the JR Sobu Line from Ryogoku Station two stops to Akihabara Station.

2. Akihabara Electric Town

For a mind-numbing spin through the latest in Japanese electronic wizardry, check out a few of the 600-some shops and stalls vying for your attention in the nation's largest electronics district. Some shops specialize in anime (Japanese animation).

Take the JR Yamanote Line, which loops around central Tokyo, directly to Harajuku Station (via Tokyo Station).

3. Harajuku

Harajuku is teeny-bopper heaven, with throngs of young Japanese combing shops for the latest fashions. It's one of Tokyo's most energetic neighborhoods, full of sidewalk cafes, boutiques, accessory stalls, and street vendors.

Fujimamas -- This is the quintessential Harajuku restaurant, casual and open to the street with sidewalk seating. It serves fusion Asian cuisine from an ever-changing menu, at reasonable prices. Located at 6-3-2 Jingumae (tel. 03/5485-2262).

4. Oriental Bazaar

With a facade that resembles a Shinto shrine, this is Tokyo's best bet for one-stop souvenir shopping: four floors packed with tableware, yukata, new and used kimono, antique furniture, and more. Closed Thursday.

5. Ota Memorial Museum of Art

This diminutive museum packs a wallop with its themed exhibits of ukiyo-e (woodblock prints). I've seen everything from Edo-era beauties to varied views of Mount Fuji. Closed Monday and from the 27th to the end of every month for exhibit changes.

6. Meiji Jingu Shrine

It's not old -- it dates from only 1920 -- but it was built in honor of Emperor and Empress Meiji, whose role in opening Japan to the rest of the world cannot be overstated. After walking through a lush forest, once the private grounds of a feudal lord, and passing under two torii (traditional entry gates of a Shinto shrine), you'll come to the shrine, designed with an austere, dignified simplicity.

Take the JR Yamanote Line from Harajuku two stops north to Shinjuku Station. Take the west exit.

7. Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office (TMG)

Nothing conveys Tokyo's vastness better than this perch 45 stories aboveground. From here you have unparalleled views of Shinjuku's skyscrapers and even Mount Fuji on clear days. Best of all? It's free. Hours are daily 9:30am to 10:30pm.

New York Grill -- You may recognize this gorgeous hotel as the premier setting for Lost in Translation. For the same expansive views featured in the film, head to this top-notch venue on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt Hotel. You'll pay for the memorable experience to dine here on superb American cuisine -- but only if you make a reservation in advance. Located at 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (tel. 03/5322-1234).

Take the free shuttle bus from the Park Hyatt to Shinjuku Station (last departure: 9:30pm); or take a taxi to Kabuki-cho.

8. Kabuki-cho

Kabuki-cho ranks as one of Japan's most famous -- and notorious -- nightlife districts. Neon galore heralds restaurants, bars, dance clubs, strip joints, peep shows, and hostess bars. Once the domain of Japanese businessmen carousing with fellow office workers, Kabuki-cho's narrow streets now attract a college crowd as well, until the wee hours. It's fun to take a spin through, if only to see what all the hubbub is about.