The Performing Arts

In addition to the listings, Tokyo has occasional shows of more avant-garde or lesser-known performing arts, including highly stylized Butoh dance performances by companies such as Sankai Juku, and percussion demonstrations by Kodo drummers and other Japanese drum groups.

Traditional Performing Arts

Kabuki -- Probably Japan's best-known traditional theater art, Kabuki is also one of the country's most popular forms of entertainment. Visit a performance and it's easy to see why -- Kabuki is fun! The plays are dramatic, the costumes are gorgeous, the stage settings can be fantastic, and the themes are universal -- love, revenge, and the conflict between duty and personal feelings. One probable reason for Kabuki's popularity is that it originated centuries ago as a form of entertainment for the common people in feudal Japan, particularly the merchant class. One of Kabuki's interesting aspects is that all roles -- even those depicting women -- are portrayed by men.

There are more than 300 Kabuki plays, all written before the 20th century. For a Westerner, one of the more arresting things about a Kabuki performance is the audience. Because this has always been entertainment for the masses, the spectators can get quite lively, adding yells of approval, guffaws, and laughter. Also contributing to the festive atmosphere are the box lunches and drinks available during intermission.

One of Japan's most prestigious theaters for Kabuki is Kabuki-za, 4-12-15 Ginza (tel. 03/5565-6000 for advance reservations; www.shochiku.co.jp/play/kabukiza/theater). An easy walk from the Ginza 4-chome Crossing (directly above Higashi-Ginza Station), this impressive theater with a Momoyama-style facade (influenced by 16th-century castle architecture) is a remake of the 1924 original building. It seats almost 2,000 and features the usual Kabuki stage fittings, including a platform that can be raised above and lowered below the stage for dramatic appearances and disappearances of actors, a revolving stage, and a runway stage extending into the audience.

The Kabuki-za stages about eight or nine Kabuki productions a year. Each production begins its run between the first and third of each month and runs about 25 days (there are no shows in Aug). Usually, two different programs are shown; matinees run from about 11 or 11:30am to 4pm, and evening performances run from about 4:30 or 5pm to about 9pm. It's considered perfectly okay to come for only part of a performance. Of course, you won't be able to understand what's being said, but that doesn't matter; the productions themselves are great entertainment. For an outline of the plot, you should rent English-language earphones for ¥650 ($5.40/£2.75), plus a ¥1,000 ($8.30/£4.20) refundable deposit -- these provide a running commentary on the story, music, actors, stage properties, and other aspects of Kabuki. Renting earphones will add immensely to your enjoyment of the play.

Tickets generally range from ¥3,000 to ¥22,000 ($25-$183/£13-£92), depending on the program and seat location. Advance tickets can be purchased at the Advance Ticket Office to the right side of Kabuki-za's main entrance from 10am to 6pm. You may also make advance reservations by phone (same-day bookings are not accepted). Otherwise, tickets for each day's performance are placed on sale 1 hour before the start of each performance.

If you don't have time for an entire performance, or if you wish to view Kabuki only for a short while, it's possible to watch a single act (makumi). One-acts generally last about 1 or 1 1/2 hours, with tickets per act costing ¥800 to ¥1,300 ($6.65-$11/£3.35-£5.45) depending on the time of day and length of the show. English-language earphones cost ¥400 ($3.30/£1.70) for one act. Note that seats are a bit far from the stage, on the very top two rows of the theater (on the fourth floor; there is no elevator). On the other hand, I have seen several acts this way, sometimes simply dropping by when I'm in the area; it's a marvelous midday break from the rigors of shopping. These tickets, sold at the smaller entrance to the left of the main entrance, are available on a first-come, first-served basis and go on sale 20 minutes prior to each act. If you like the act so much that you wish to remain for the next one, you may do so if the act is not sold out; tickets in these cases are usually available on the fourth floor.

If there are no shows at Kabuki-za, you may be able to see Kabuki at the National Theatre of Japan (Kokuritsu Gekijo), 4-1 Hayabusacho, Chiyoda-ku (tel. 03/3230-3000; www.ntj.jac.go.jp; station: Hanzomon, 6 min.). Kabuki is scheduled throughout the year except during February, May, August, and September, when Bunraku is staged. Matinees usually begin at 11am or noon, and afternoon performances at 2:30 or 5pm. Most tickets range from about ¥1,500 to ¥3,800 ($12-$32/£6.30-£16), with earphones available for ¥700 ($5.80/£2.95) plus a ¥1,000 ($8.30/£4.20) deposit.

Noh -- Whereas Kabuki developed as a form of entertainment for the masses, Noh was a much more traditional and aristocratic form of theater. In contrast to Kabuki's extroverted liveliness, Noh is very calculated and restrained. The oldest form of theater in Japan, it has changed very little in the past 600 years. The language is so archaic that today the Japanese cannot understand it at all, which explains in part why Noh does not have the popularity that Kabuki does.

As in Kabuki, all the performers are men. Altogether there are about 240 Noh plays, often concerned with supernatural beings, beautiful women, mentally confused and tormented people, or tragic-heroic epics.

Because the action is slow, sitting through an entire performance can be tedious unless you are particularly interested in Noh dance and music. In addition, most Noh plays do not have English translations. You may want to drop in for just a short while. Definitely worth seeing, however, are the short comic reliefs, called kyogen, that make fun of life in the 1600s and are performed between Noh dramas.

Noh is performed at a number of locations in Tokyo, but most famous is the National Noh Theater (Kokuritsu Nohgakudo), 4-18-1 Sendagaya, Shibuya-ku (tel. 03/3423-1331; station: Sendagaya, 5 min.). Opened in 1983, it is dedicated to presenting classical Noh and kyogen, with about three to five performances monthly. Tickets range from about ¥2,600 to ¥4,800 ($22-$40/£11-£20) but are often sold out in advance. However, about 30 tickets are held back to be sold on the day of the performance. In addition, privately sponsored Noh performances are also held here, for which the admission varies. Check the Japan Times or Daily Yomiuri for performance dates and times.

Bunraku -- Bunraku is traditional Japanese puppet theater, but contrary to what you might expect, the dramas are for adults, with themes centering on love, revenge, sacrifice, and suicide. Popular in Japan since the 17th century, Bunraku is fascinating to watch because the puppeteers, dressed in black, are right on stage with their puppets. They're wonderfully skilled at making the puppets seem like living beings. It usually takes three puppeteers to work one puppet, which is about three-quarters human size. A narrator recites the story and speaks all the parts, accompanied by the shamisen, a traditional three-stringed Japanese instrument.

Although the main Bunraku theater in Japan is in Osaka, the National Theatre of Japan stages about four Bunraku plays a year (in Feb, May, Aug, and Sept). There are usually two to three performances daily, beginning at 11am, with tickets costing ¥1,500 to ¥6,500 ($12-$54/£6.30-£27). Earphones with English-language explanations are available for ¥650 ($5.40/£2.75), plus a ¥1,000 ($8.30/£4.20) deposit.

Contemporary Performing Arts

Western Classical Music -- Among the best-known orchestras in Tokyo are the Tokyo Philharmonic Orchestra (tel. 03/5353-9521; www.tpo.or.jp), Japan Philharmonic Orchestra (tel. 03/5378-5911; www.japanphil.or.jp), Tokyo Symphony Orchestra (tel. 044/520-1511; www.tokyosymphony.com), and NHK Symphony Orchestra (tel. 03/3465-1780; www.nhkso.or.jp/en). They play in various theaters throughout Tokyo, with the majority of performances in Suntory Hall in Akasaka, Bunkamura Orchard Hall in Shibuya, Tokyo Opera City in Shinjuku, or the Tokyo Geijutsu Gekijo in Ikebukuro. Since the schedule varies, it's best to contact the orchestra directly or check the Japan Times or Daily Yomiuri to find out whether there's a current performance. Tickets generally start at ¥3,000 or ¥4,000 ($25-$33/£13-£17).

Takarazuka Kagekidan -- This world-famous, all-female troupe stages elaborate musical revues with dancing, singing, and gorgeous costumes. Performances range from Japanese versions of Broadway hits to original Japanese works based on local legends. The first Takarazuka troupe, formed in 1912 at a resort near Osaka, gained instant notoriety because all its performers were women, in contrast to the all-male Kabuki. When I went to see this troupe perform, I was surprised to find that the audience also consisted almost exclusively of women; indeed, the troupe has an almost cultlike following.

Performances, with story synopses available in English, are generally held in March, April, July, August, November, December, and sometimes in June, at Tokyo Takarazuka Gekijo, 1-1-3 Yurakucho (tel. 03/5251-2001; station: Hibiya, 1 min.). Tickets, available at the box office or through Ticket Pia (tel. 0570/02-9999), usually range about ¥3,500 to ¥10,000 ($29-$83/£15-£42).

Kingyo -- This sophisticated nightclub stages one of the most high-energy, visually charged acts I've ever seen -- nonstop action of ascending and receding stages and stairs, fast-paced choreography, elaborate costumes, and loud music. There are a few female dancers, but most of the dancers are males assuming female parts, just like in Kabuki. In fact, many of the performances center on traditional Japanese themes with traditional dress and kimono, but the shows take place in a technically sophisticated setting. There are also satires: One past performance included a piece on Microsoft vs. Apple; another featured aliens from outer space -- great fun. It's located in the Roppongi nightlife district at 3-14-17 Roppongi (tel. 03/3478-3000; station: Roppongi, 4 min.), near the Roppongi cemetery. (From Roppongi Crossing, walk toward Tokyo Tower on Gaien-Higashi Dori and take the second left; it's on the right.) Cover is ¥4,000 ($33/£17) for daily shows at 7:20 and 9:50pm, with additional shows Friday and Saturday at 1:20am. Reservations are advised for this show, which is so popular it has spawned sister imitations: Kokucho No Mizuumi, 2-25-2 Kabuki-cho (tel. 03/3205-0128; station: Shinjuku), and Garcon Pub, on the 49th floor of the Sumitomo Building at 2-6 Nishi-Shinjuku (tel. 03/3344-6591; station: Tochomae).