Neighborhoods

Ginza & Hibiya

Inexpensive -- Check out the chain To the Herbs next to Kabukiza at 4-13-11 Ginza (tel. 03/5565-9800), open daily 11am to 9:50pm (last order). It serves inexpensive pizza and pasta. For tonkatsu, there's a branch of Maisen in the Mitsui Building at 1-1-2 Yurakucho, near the Imperial Hotel (tel. 03/3503-1886). In addition, a number of restaurants on the eighth floor of Matsuya Ginza department store serve everything from French and Chinese food to sushi, tempura, noodles, and more.

For atmospheric dining, head to an arch underneath the elevated Yamanote railway tracks located about halfway between Harumi Dori and the Imperial Hotel Tower. It has a handful of tiny yakitori stands, each with a few tables and chairs. They cater to a rather boisterous working-class clientele, mainly men. The atmosphere, unsophisticated and dingy, harks back to prewar Japan, somewhat of an anomaly in the otherwise chic Ginza. Stalls are open from about 5pm to midnight Monday to Saturday.

Nihombashi & Around Tokyo Station

Moderate -- Sushiko, on the 35th floor of the Marunouchi Building (tel. 03/3240-1908), offer set sushi meals for lunch and dinner.

Inexpensive -- There's a Kua' Aina outlet selling burgers in the Marunouchi Building across from Tokyo Station at 2-4-1 Marunouchi (tel. 03/5220-2400).

Tsukiji

Since Tsukiji is home to the nation's largest wholesale fish market, it's not surprising that this area abounds in sushi and seafood restaurants. In addition to the recommendations here, don't neglect the many stalls in and around the market, where you can eat everything from noodles to fresh sashimi.

Shinjuku

Be sure to check out the restaurant floors of several buildings in Shinjuku, where you can find eateries in all price categories serving a variety of Japanese and international cuisines; some even have the bonus of great city views. These include the 29th and 30th floors of the N. S. Building where, in addition to Hakkaku, other restaurants serve tempura, tonkatsu, teppanyaki, and sushi, as well as Italian, German, and French food; the top four floors of the Sumitomo Building where, in addition to Donto, you'll find more than 20 outlets offering everything from tempura to Chinese cuisine; and the 12th, 13th, and 14th floors of Takashimaya Times Square where, in addition to Kyoto Fukurokuju (described below), restaurants serve sushi, tonkatsu, noodles, tempura, and more.

Expensive -- There's a branch of the famous tempura restaurant Ten-ichi on the seventh floor of Isetan department store, 3-14-1 Shinjuku (tel. 03/5379-3039;

Moderate -- In addition to the suggestions here, an excellent choice for nouvelle Japanese cuisine is daidaiya, located next to the east exit of Shinjuku station on the third floor of the Nowa Building, 3-37-12 Shinjuku (tel. 03/5362-7173). It's open daily 5pm to midnight.

Inexpensive -- Donto, on the 49th floor of the Sumitomo Building (tel. 03/3344-6269), offers a Japanese lunch buffet for ¥1,000 ($9.50) and set meals for dinner. Also, Tengu, on Yasukuni Dori in East Shinjuku (tel. 03/3354-3046), is a popular Japanese-style pub with inexpensive meals.

Harajuku & Aoyama

Inexpensive -- Consider Tex-Mex restaurant Zest Cantina, 6-7-18 Jingumae (tel. 03/3409-6268), open daily from 11:30am to 5am. Here, too, is La Boheme, with locations at 6-8-18 Jingumae (tel. 03/3400-3406), at 6-2-2 Minami Aoyama (tel. 03/6418-4242), and on Omotesando Dori at 5-8-5 Jingumae (tel. 03/5467-5666); all serve pizza and pasta and are open daily from 11:30am to 5am. Monsoon, serving Southeast Asian fare, is at 7-3-1 Minami Aoyama (tel. 03/3400-7200;. Shakey's, on Omotesando Dori near Oriental Bazaar at 6-1-10 Jingumae (tel. 03/3409-2404), offers an all-you-can eat pizza buffet daily from 11am to 4pm.

Shibuya

Serving as a major commuter nucleus, Shibuya caters primarily to students and young office workers with its many fashion department stores and lively nightlife scene. Consider the fourth floor of Mark City, 1-12-5 Dogenzaka, across from Shibuya Station (and next to the Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu), where you'll find a dozen or so restaurants specializing in Japanese, Italian, and Chinese food. Try [36] Mikura (tel. 03/5459-4011), simply but elegantly decorated, for its obento and kaiseki; set lunches cost ¥2,100 to ¥3,550 ($20-$34), and dinners cost ¥3,800 to ¥6,800 ($36-$65). It's open daily 11am to 1:30pm and 5 to 9pm (last order). I also like [37] Mimiu (tel. 03/5459-2620), which offers shabu-shabu for ¥3,960 ($38) per person. It's open daily 11am to 4pm and 5 to 9:30pm (last order).

You'll also find branches of the pizza/pasta restaurant La Boheme (tel. 03/3477-0481;; Monsoon (tel. 03/5489-1611;, serving Southeast Asian fare; and Tex-Mex eatery Zest Cantina (tel. 03/5489-3332;, all at 1-6-8 Jinnan and open daily 11:30am to 5am. For burgers, there's Kua'Aina, at 1-10-4 Shibuya (tel. 03/3409-3200;.

Ebisu & Meguro

Inexpensive -- In addition to the choices here, there's a La Boheme in Meguro on Gaien-Nishi Dori, 4-19-17 Shirokanedai (tel. 03/3442-4488; station: Shirokanedai, 4 min.), open daily 11:30am to 5am for pizza and pasta. There's also a branch of Good Honest Grub, serving North American comfort foods and vegetarian dishes, in Ebisu at 1-11-11 Ebisu-Minami (tel. 03/3710-0400).

Roppongi & Nishi Azabu

Because Roppongi is such a popular nighttime hangout for young Tokyoites and foreigners, it boasts a large number of both Japanese and Western restaurants. To find the location of any of Roppongi address, stop by the tiny police station on Roppongi Crossing (Roppongi's main intersection of Roppongi Dori and Gaien-Higashi Dori), where you'll find a map of the area. If you still don't know where to go, ask one of the policemen.

About a 10-minute walk west of Roppongi (via Roppongi Dori in the direction of Shibuya) is Nishi Azabu. Once primarily a residential neighborhood, Nishi Azabu has slowly changed over the years as it began absorbing the overflow of Roppongi. It has restaurants and a few bars, yet remains mellower and much less crowded than Roppongi. Between Roppongi Crossing and Nishi Azabu is Roppongi Hills, a sprawling urban development with many choices in dining.

Moderate -- There's a Wolfgang Puck Cafe in the Roi Building, 5-5-1 Roppongi (tel. 03/5775-5401).

Inexpensive -- La Boheme, 2-25-18 Nishi Azabu (tel. 03/3407-1363), serves pizza and pasta.

Akasaka

Expensive -- In addition to the recommendations here, there's a branch of Ten-ichi, specializing in tempura, in Akasaka Tokyu Plaza, 2-14-3 Nagata-cho (tel. 03/3581-2166), open daily 11am to 9:30pm.

Inexpensive -- Don't forget Hayashi, on the fourth floor of the Sanno Kaikan Building, 2-14-1 Akasaka, described as an expensive restaurant. Although dinner is costly, you can enjoy the same, cozy atmosphere for much, much less at lunch, when only one dish, oyakodonburi (rice topped with chunks of chicken and omelet), is served, with pickled vegetables, clear soup, and tea for ¥900 ($8.55). Open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30am to 2pm. Akasaka is also home to two branches of Moti, my favorite Indian restaurant: on the second floor of the Akasaka Floral Plaza, 3-8-8 Akasaka (tel. 03/3582-3620); and on the third floor of the Kinpa Building, 2-14-31 Akasaka (tel. 03/3584-6640).

Other Neighborhoods

Inexpensive -- There's also a La Boheme serving pizza and pasta (tel. 03/3599-4801), Gonpachi serving Japanese food (tel. 03/3599-4807;), Monsoon serving Southeast Asian fare (tel. 03/3599-4805;), and Zest Cantina serving Tex-Mex (tel. 03/3599-4803;), all on the fourth floor of Mediage on Odaiba and open daily 11:30am to 5am. Also on Odaiba is a branch of Kua' Aina, in Aqua City (tel. 03/3599-2800;), serving hamburgers.